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Black Velvet Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 
Cutting Edge T 
Dream of Wild Turkeys T 
Epinephrine T 
Fiddler on the Roof T,S 
Fiddler Roof, The T 
Gobbler, The T 
Johnny Come Lately S 
My Little Pony T 
Overhanging Hangover T 
Prince of Darkness T,S 
Refried Brains T 
Rock Warrior T 
Sandstone Samurai T 
Smooth as Silk T 
Sour Mash T 
Spark Plug T 
Steel Monkey T 
Velveeta T 
Yellow Brick Road T,S 

Black Velvet Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 36.03518, -115.46652 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 170,142
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M. Morley on Feb 16, 2004
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is one of the premier walls in Red Rock. It features a wealth and variety of good climbing from the chimneys of Epinephrine to the balancy edges on Dream of Wild Turkeys.

Getting There 

From the Black Velvet parking lot, follow the old bicycle road west for a few hundred yards. When the road turns left, continue west on a good trail. At the base of Whiskey Peak, the is a trail branching left to climb up to Frogland and nearby routes; continue west, climbing slightly before dropping into the deep wash on your immediate right. Follow the streambed up until it is blocked by a cliff band. On the left side of the wash trails lead up to a steep 3rd class route through the band. From the top of the cliff either go straight south toward routes near Dream of Wild Turkeys, or drop back to the streambed and continue upstream a short distance to the Epinephrine area.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.4 miles from here

20 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Black Velvet Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black Velvet Wall:
Epinephrine   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 13 pitches, 1600'   
Refried Brains   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 800'   
Dream of Wild Turkeys   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 700'   
Sour Mash   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Overhanging Hangover   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
The Gobbler   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Rock Warrior   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 6 pitches   
Yellow Brick Road   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 550'   
Spark Plug   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Johnny Come Lately   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Prince of Darkness   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 700'   
Fiddler on the Roof   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 500'   
Smooth as Silk   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 340'   
Sandstone Samurai   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X     Trad, 5 pitches, 700'   
Velveeta   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 5 pitches, 1000'   
Cutting Edge   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   
My Little Pony   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black Velvet Wall

Featured Route For Black Velvet Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: This is nearing the top of the route, after it has...

Yellow Brick Road 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Black Velvet Wall
Yellow Brick Road is more of a 2 pitch variation to Dream of Wild Turkerys. Start by climbing the first 2 pitches of DOWT. Pitch 1- 5.6, Pitch 2- 5.8. On pitch 3 you will start the pitch the same as you would for DOWT. About 30ft into the pitch you will reach the rightward traverse for DOWT, instead of traversing, continue straight up the crack(at first) then follow the obvious line of bolts to a hanging belay- 5.10b. Historical note- there is a metal plaque bolted to the wall where these 2 r...[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

Photos of Black Velvet Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on pitch 3 of Wild Turkeys and myself (at...
Climbers on pitch 3 of Wild Turkeys and myself (at...
Rock Climbing Photo: Keith Phelps running it out on Sandstone Samurai
Keith Phelps running it out on Sandstone Samurai
Rock Climbing Photo: Black Velvet Wall
BETA PHOTO: Black Velvet Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: A typical day in the Velvet.    Red = Prince of Da...
BETA PHOTO: A typical day in the Velvet. Red = Prince of Da...
Rock Climbing Photo: Black Velvet Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Black Velvet Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Panorama of BVW using fisheye projection over 4 im...
BETA PHOTO: Panorama of BVW using fisheye projection over 4 im...
Rock Climbing Photo: If you climbed a few routes right of epinephrine o...
If you climbed a few routes right of epinephrine o...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Black Velvet Wall
The Black Velvet Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: September 2004.
September 2004.
Rock Climbing Photo: Black Velvet Wall
Black Velvet Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Black Velvet Wall from the approach trail...gettin...
Black Velvet Wall from the approach trail...gettin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Frogland buttress.
Frogland buttress.

Comments on Black Velvet Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By timoteo
Jul 30, 2009
Hi all- I'm not seeing, in the roster of routes, a route called something like "7 Samaurai", which I remember doing (Boy, do I remember that one) a long time ago, in the late 80's or maybe early 90's? We were trying to climb something else nearby, and ended up on a route with 2-bolt belays and exactly 1 protection bolt 1/2 way between them, for maybe 5 pitches or so. We asked later at a local climbing shop what the heck that was (not in our guidebook) and they said we'd just done maybe the 2nd ascent of a newish route. Did I just dream this?? Do I have the name all wrong? It was one of the most memorable climbs in my so-far 30 years of climbing.... Help an old man remember- thanks! tim hansen, estes park, colorado
By Larry DeAngelo
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 30, 2009
Sounds like Sandstone Samurai... Write it up!
By timoteo
Jul 31, 2009
I got to thinking that I'm not at all sure when we did this climb- might have been earlier yet. At any rate, I'm sure a local can write this route up way better than I can, I remember it being somewhat L of center on the wall (or near Rock Warrior??), with a spot of 5.11 on the 1st pitch, and then 3, or 4, or 5? more pitches of maybe solid 5.9, on the usual great rock, but only 1 bolt 75' out from each belay. There was no chalk on this route, and I felt fortunate to find these single bolts out in the middle of nowhere! Was also able to occasionally get an RP (small nut) in now and then, just to dial the fear factor down a little. Just wondering why it is not included in the BVW roster of routes?

By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 31, 2009
No in the route database because it is probably done like 1-2 times per year if that. Sounds like a step up from rock warrior as far as commitment.
By timoteo
Aug 10, 2009
Excellent route if you're up to it, but I recommend that you be climbing at least solid 11,if not 12, with a lot of previous successful run-outs on 5.10 under your belt before attempting this one. Tiny slings and other creative gear placements are also helpful. I wonder if the bolts on it are even safe anymore?? Would be a trade route with up-dated, and added, bolts, but of course this is up to the 1st ascensionists and local climbing community. Anyway- very bold route in it's day, just happened to remember it for no particular reason and tried to look it up here. I see that it is described in "Red Rocks Select", by Todd Swain, 1995. BVW is one of the best, anywhere, in my book!
By Kevin Volkening
Mar 18, 2012
Climbed an "approach" pitch which we thought was P1 of Yellow Rose. Book said to climb to a crack with one bolt. Really sandy and felt much harder than 10a...any idea what this might be?

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