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Black Track 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dean Rosnau, Roy Suggett, 1994
Page Views: 518
Submitted By: Jeff Hebert on Sep 1, 2013

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Description 

P1: Easy 5th climbing up a somewhat loose corner to a two-bolt anchor on a large boulder
P2: Pull a few moves through a wide, low-angle chimney to get on top of the boulder and to the first bolt. Enjoy face climbing on granite edges up to a bolted anchor
P3: Continue up past a couple of bolts to the top and a fixed anchor on a tree.

P3 is very short and could easily be combined with a 70m rope. Likely with a 60m rope as well.

Location 

In the corner left of Pump Up the Jams

Protection 

Gear for P1, Bolts for P2 and P3


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By butters
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

great route on great rock. 45min approach. reminded me of Alabama hills typical edge and crimp climbing but on bomber granite! great climbing. bolts are kinda spaced but it was done ground up.

pitch 1: we scrambled up staying left to a ledge rather than on the right by the dihedral and turned the class 5 route(which starts right and directly up.) into a 5.7 followed flakes to a ledge working right and up to a small tree and grassy dihedral(dirty and no pro), traversed right on some great juggy face moves(exciting) working my way to the class 5 grassy ramp and up to a 2 bolt anchor with rap rings. adventure pitch. standard alpine rack.

(connected pitch 2 and 3. carrying the trailer rope as well made the rope drag heavy halfway up the 3rd pitch.)
pitch 2: (5.9) from the bolts go up the easy chimney to the right and get on top(40ft) and clip the 1st bolt and step right onto the wall and follow the black streak up. few bolts had some runout potential but on easier ground..

pitch 3: (10a) crux pitch. the spacing of the bolts is about 15ft for the first couple as the climbing is easier. but the last 2 bolts, the climbing gets to the solid 10a. with my personal crux passing the last bolt and attempted going straight up felt much harder than 10a with a death block looming above. was able to climb back down and start traversing right and up to the top. walked behind the bushes rather than traversing left about 20ft on the dirty edge to the rap station off tree. built my anchor 2ft behind the rap station off 2 solid trees. sweet spot sitting on the edge getting to watch your buddy climb up. lots of sap...

descent: rap off tree overhanging the edge. we left a new yellow sling(7/5/14) but used the two old carabiners(1 locking) rather than old slings. double rope rappel to the rap rings at pitch 1. another double rope rappel back to the base with lots of extra rope.

all in all excellent climb, well worth doing. all the bolts were bomber except for the last bolt being the crux... kinda loose and slightly bent.. looks like some people could have taken some falls on it..?

we started on this route and moved left 15mins and finished on finger locking good (5.8). 1 word.. to describe the day for us.. stoked!

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