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Routes in Gateway Boulder
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Black Tornado V5 6C |
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Downtrail Face V6 7A |
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Gateway V5-6 6C+ |
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Gateway Arete V3 6A |
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Gateway Face V5+ 6C+ |
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Horn Arete, The V3-4 6A+ |
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| Type: | Boulder, Alpine, 12 ft (4 m) |
| FA: | Chip Phillips, 2005 |
| Page Views: | 1,151 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Chip Phillips on Oct 25, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Most of these boulders are within the Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the US.
Details
Most boulders are located within the Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the USFS. Climbers should be on their best behavior, practice Leave No Trace. Please abide by these requirements: it can take vegetation decades to recover from damage. Place crash pads judiciously, & keep brushing to a minimum. Before adding new lines, considered the damage that may be caused by additional foot traffic, pads, etc.
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Description
Begin from a stand start and reach high above your head for a seam you can obviously match in just left of the black lichen. Pull on, maybe bump your RH slightly right, then violently throw 5 feet up and right to the top of the "black tornado" streak of lichen.
A borderline-impossible-looking sit start on a jug below is obvious, but intermediates and feet to bridge the gap are sparse ... to put it mildly.
A borderline-impossible-looking sit start on a jug below is obvious, but intermediates and feet to bridge the gap are sparse ... to put it mildly.
Location
Right of center on the downtrail face of the Trailside Boulder, about 5 feet right of Downtrail Face, and topping out above the black streak of lichen.
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