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Black Tiger 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Chris Brislawn and Jim Swenson, 1989
Season: All
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 23, 2006

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  • Description 

    The following description is based on an ascent of this route by Richard and Joyce Rossiter in 1989. This route takes the ultimate line just right of center on the Southwest Buttress. Begin from the right side of the Ledge With 3 Trees.

    Climb a hand crack and a finger crack through a bulge to the first bolt (about 2 feet above the crack), then work straight up the wall on solution holes and tiny edges to the second bolt. Even thinner climbing leads to the third bolt. This is where most people bail. Continue up perilous terrain to a tips crack that curves up and right (good pro: small Aliens here), lieback to a second short finger crack, and climb more easily to belay from a vertical 2-inch crack on the right. One may also continue up and left to a new ring anchor placed 24 July 2006. Lower off 80 feet. In 1989 we climbed to the top of the buttress and endured a truly heinous descent through fallen trees, dense underbrush and loose talus.

    Black Tiger is a lead I am not inclined to repeat. If I could find Chris Brislawn, I would ask his permission to refit the bolts on this beautiful route. The original bolts are now rusty with old SMC hangers and could be updated and arranged more effectively (I think).

    Location 

    From Wall of the Dead, hike the trail up and right, then back left. Watch for a new trail that leads up and left to the bottom of the Southwest Buttress. Scramble up some 25 feet to the Ledge With 3 Trees. Look for a hand crack and a finger crack through a bulge that leads to a sloping stance with an old bolt.

    Protection 

    Gear from 0.5 inch to 2 inches and maybe 8 QDs. Belay at the top (just like old times) and hike down the new trail (not like old times), or lower off from new rings, 80 feet to the Ledge With 3 Trees.


    Photos of Black Tiger Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Black Tiger and Jaguar, Avalon Southwest Buttress
    BETA PHOTO: Black Tiger and Jaguar, Avalon Southwest Buttress

    Comments on Black Tiger Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 14, 2007
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

    Some neat climbing, but the route needs a good scraping so you can smear with your feet and not fall. After on-sighting a few "5.12s" today I snapped or crumbled several intermediate holds off of this route before I retreated from the 3rd bolt, tail between my legs (and no gear on my harness for the upper section).
    By Jason Haas
    Aug 23, 2008

    "If this were in a gym, I'd be at the front desk complaining, asking for my $12 back." - Matt Samet

    yep, that about sums it up


    It's real sketch getting to the finger crack above the third bolt

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