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Black Tie T 
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Celestial Gate T 
Center Dihedral T 
Days of Heaven T 
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Wasp, The T 

Black Tie 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Shaun Reed
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 725
Submitted By: Shaun Reed on Oct 13, 2015

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Shaun Reed during the FA.

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Description 

Scramble up to a small ledge to the right of Greensleeves, and follow the large, black streak clipping 9 bolts to a left-angling, undercling, finger crack. Climb past a loose block, then cut back right to join the last 10 feet of Pitch Perfect. FYI, I tried to remove the loose block, but it seemed pretty solid. It's fine to pull on, but I wouldn't put a cam behind it.

Only a handful of people I know of have been on this, and it's still awaiting a second lead ascent. Let me know what you think, and enjoy!

Location 

It's located on the obvious big black streak to the right of Greensleeves and to the left of Pitch Perfect.

Protection 

9 bolts with 2 or 3 cam placements at the top. I used a green Alien and a green Camalot, but there could be other options, too.


Photos of Black Tie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shaun Reed during the FA.
Shaun Reed during the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shaun Reed during the FA.
Shaun Reed during the FA.

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By MauryB
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2016
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Well done, Shaun! Probably the second best route at the cliff after The Wasp! Sustained, techy edging the whole way that doesn't let up.

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