|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 40'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Scott Beguin on Aug 30, 2007|
|Comments on Black Tar||Add Comment|
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By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I placed everything from a yellow Alien/TCU to a #1 camalot and a #3 camalot, though I think a #4 would have been better. So I would say doubles to a #1 camalot and a bigger piece. I tried to place one stopper and with the way the crack is formed it just seemed weird, maybe if you were aiding it.
I also finished on the Tendon Bender anchor as it seemed to be in a better position for rope drag and cleaning.