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Black Sunshine 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Ben Boyd
Page Views: 2,191
Submitted By: Red on Nov 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Black Sunshine

Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>


A good length single pitch sport route with fun movement and some tufas. This route sports a huge sit down rest cave a little more than half way up the route. Continues out of cave left then climbs right over cave on head wall.


Two routes to the right of the built rock sun shelter wall. Just to the left of Ground Affects.


11 bolts to rings.

Photos of Black Sunshine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ed framed by the saguaro on his onsight of the rou...
Ed framed by the saguaro on his onsight of the rou...

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By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Dec 4, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Great route, if this didn't have the no-hands rest then it would be quite a bit harder, probably in the 12c/12d range. The bottom half is surprisingly pumpy for not being that steep.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Dec 21, 2016

This route is super fun with cool climbing and a great rest. Just dont blow the second clip (powerful) after the rest, you will likely come hurtling into the ledge.
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 29, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This route is pure fun. I felt like there were at least 3 slightly odd bolt placements where it felt like a move just to hang the draw. I didn't mind the cave at 2/3 height as the moves are pretty engaging right away after leaving it. So good we did it twice, and this route apparently stays dry when everything else is dripping wet.

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