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black sunday 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: north facing and shady
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: slim on Jun 16, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: rope hanging on Black Sunday

Description 

black sunday is a great little route at the dark side. this might be the best candidate for a first 12a route here, given its shorter length, lack of brutal tweaking pockets, and perfect protection.

begin through a steep, intimidating, yet surprisingly not too bad starting section on good pockets. this deposits you on a nice section of vertical rock. try to get a decent shake and a game plan before launching up into the sequential crux. from there, easier but not too easy climbing will take you to the anchors. don't worry too much about the orange lichen, there are 'almost' no holds in that zone...

this one is a tricky onsight (probably like many spearfish routes), but once you get it sorted out the climbing is pretty straight forward.

Location 

this route is around 120 feet (right) from the left end of the dark side wall, and approximately 50 feet left of the laser cut arete that makes up 'sith' and 'tough love'. this area has a little stone wall and shelf that houses the aqueduct pipe. black sunday is located just left of a big slot/chimney with a ton of orange lichen. the route itself has a fair amount of orange lichen in the top section, which helps in identifying it.

Protection 

approximately 6 bolts and open shut anchors.


Comments on black sunday Add Comment
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By Gneiss Yeti
From: Denver, Colorado
Jul 21, 2015

Short and sweet, this climb has some great pocket pulling on it.
By Julia
Sep 5, 2015

Small pockets and feet, great climb if you are on the shorter side, no reachy moves!

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