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Eagle Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are You Lichen It? S 
Bananarama S 
Black Streak S 
Bunga Bunga S 
Didgemaster S 
Handsome Parish Lady S 
Indecent Insertion S 
Jug Abuse S 
Killer Bee S 
Kona S 
Maalox Moment S 
Manhattan S 
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 
New Wave S 
Old Wave T 
Omdulation Fever S 
Pepto-Dismal S 
Psycho Thriller TR 
Racist Fantasy S 
Top Hat S 
Turkey Baster S 
Tutti Frutti S 
Unnamed Left S 
Unnamed Right S 

Black Streak 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Gershwin
Page Views: 146
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jun 23, 2014  with updates from George Perkins

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BETA PHOTO: Climbing the Black Streak, To the right is the 5.1...


This climb makes for an OK warmup, if you've gotten to Eagle Canyon too early and the main wall is still in the sun. The rock was only slightly damaged during the fire, however a stick clip is advisable in case a hold blows low on the route.

Climb up onto a small ledge to start, pulling sequential pockets through a somewhat meandering line for the first half of the climb. A few long cranks are required here and there to navigate between mostly decent holds. At the top the holds die out and an awkward traverse right, then back left, is forced to get to the anchors. Felt a bit hard for the guide grade of 10c/d, probably more like low to mid 5.11


On the North Side of Eagle Canyon, Leftmost of the cluster of three climbs. Faces directly west.


4 Bolts to Anchors, Stickclip

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