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Lord Of The Flies Wall
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Black Slabbath 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 1,565
Submitted By: Greg Parker on Nov 1, 2006

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Working the delicate upper slab

Description 

This blank looking route climbs the black face on the left side of the main wall. The climbing begins with a powerful section up the pocketed wall leading to a big sidepull/ledge. From here, the holds get very small and far apart resulting in great vertical climbing between widely spaced bolts (by canyon standards).
One of my best route names, if I do say so myself...

Protection 

7 bolts, open cold shut anchors


Photos of Black Slabbath Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric starting out on Black Slabbath.
Eric starting out on Black Slabbath.
Rock Climbing Photo: Finding a spot to chalk up can be a little tough.
Finding a spot to chalk up can be a little tough.
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper crimp fest!
Upper crimp fest!

Comments on Black Slabbath Add Comment
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By t.schwartz
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

can be 12+ with no chalk, awesome climb
By BBQ
Aug 9, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This truly is the route that all other Spearfish Canyon 5.12a should be judged by. It has it all and then some. Absolutely, positively the sickest line I have ever done. If you only have one morning to spare on your road trip to our fine canyon, start your session with Tasting Time, then do Indecent Exposure, get on Slabbath and cool down with either The Beast or The Conch. You will not be disappointed. For me this was a cool, August morning that I will never forget. Thanks for bolting Black Slabbath, Greg. This is one truly amazing climb!
By Greg Parker
Administrator
From: Cardiff, CA
Aug 11, 2013

That made my day! Thanks Brent!
By JR Cook
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 24, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Best sport route I have done to date! Do this route if you're in the area! Bolts are perfectly placed with great clipping stances, even though they may be spaced a bit farther than is the norm for Spearfish.
By Daniel Dunn
From: Boulder, CO
May 29, 2017

This route is currently missing the 3rd bolt. It ripped out when I fell on it over the weekend. The epoxy on the glue-in did not appear set at all.
By Mikel Cronin
May 31, 2017

When we were doing the recent bolt repairs on Black Slabbath there was an issue with the caulk gun were were using. We have concluded that the epoxy was not mixing part A and B. I will be going up on 6-1-17 and fixing the suspect bolts. I will post an all clear when I get it taken care.
I also talked with the Daniel about the bolt failing and was told it did not fully pull out when it was fallen on. It partially pulled out and bent.

Thanks
Mike
By Mikel Cronin
Jun 1, 2017

All the glue in bolts on Lord of the Flies wall are good to go. Black Slabbath was repaired from the recent bolt issue. On the Scavenger Wall at Blue Sky, Skunk Boy and Turkey Vulture have new glue in bolts but the old studs are still there and need to be cut and filled. Carrion still needs the 4 bottom bolts put in and studs cut. Those should be taken care of next week.
By Mikel Cronin
Jun 6, 2017

Scavenger Wall at Blue Sky is back in business. All the studs have been cut and filled and the missing bolts are installed.
By Franck Vee
Jul 29, 2017
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great route - the moves are stiff for the grade, but the pump is quite manageable (there are "rests" if you can recover by alternating arms while standing on the occasional decent foot).

The bottom part was IMO stiff but not necessarily the hardest sequence of the route, if you're decent with bulges & roof there isn't anything specially tricky about that one. Just a few power moves with fast thinking for feet placements.

The upper part however... fun, long moves on pockets & edges. There's no chalk (at least not when I climbed it), so it really makes it a guessing game finding the holds. At the same time, there are a few options at most sequences, depending how comfortable you are with thin feets & crimps and how much you're comfortable committing to sequence without necessarily knowing what's up ahead.

I did take a fall from the 4th bolt however (I went left and was gunning for the sidepull next to the draw), and it was quite a long one - almost leveled with my belayer, just above the 1st draw. I would recommand making sure your belayer is aware when you get there, and perhaps consider having him/her a bit lower (e.g. not at the ledge where the route starts, but a bit further down). Don't pull tons of slack cliping that draw either (there's not hold to clip with below anyways) - the fall is save as long as you don't do anything stupid and as long as your belayer doesn't give out tons of slack or belays too dynamically.

The other clips are a times far (for Spearfish) but the falls would be clean. Clipping stances - well they are OK, but if you're just breaking into 12 like I am you may find some rather precarious. None of them is a crux in itself, but they're not "easy" imo.

My hat to anyone who onsights this - but it is a nice redpoint candidate.
By Martin Bigatti
Aug 11, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This climb is absolutely amazing. Super technical with a couple pretty hard moves, perfectly placed bolts, and insane overall movement. If you liked it, I highly, highly recommend "Gotta Have Faith" (not in the guidebook but on MP)! Very similar style climbing on almost exact rock and just as good (if not better). It looks as if though noone gets on it but I dont think you will be disappointed!

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