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Lord Of The Flies Wall
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Black Slabbath 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 1,492
Submitted By: Greg Parker on Nov 1, 2006

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Working the delicate upper slab

Description 

This blank looking route climbs the black face on the left side of the main wall. The climbing begins with a powerful section up the pocketed wall leading to a big sidepull/ledge. From here, the holds get very small and far apart resulting in great vertical climbing between widely spaced bolts (by canyon standards).
One of my best route names, if I do say so myself...

Protection 

7 bolts, open cold shut anchors


Photos of Black Slabbath Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric starting out on Black Slabbath.
Eric starting out on Black Slabbath.
Rock Climbing Photo: Finding a spot to chalk up can be a little tough.
Finding a spot to chalk up can be a little tough.
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper crimp fest!
Upper crimp fest!

Comments on Black Slabbath Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daniel Dunn
From: Boulder, CO
May 29, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
This route is currently missing the 3rd bolt. It ripped out when I fell on it over the weekend. The epoxy on the glue-in did not appear set at all.
By Mikel Cronin
May 31, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
When we were doing the recent bolt repairs on Black Slabbath there was an issue with the caulk gun were were using. We have concluded that the epoxy was not mixing part A and B. I will be going up on 6-1-17 and fixing the suspect bolts. I will post an all clear when I get it taken care.
I also talked with the Daniel about the bolt failing and was told it did not fully pull out when it was fallen on. It partially pulled out and bent.

Thanks
Mike
By Mikel Cronin
Jun 1, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
All the glue in bolts on Lord of the Flies wall are good to go. Black Slabbath was repaired from the recent bolt issue. On the Scavenger Wall at Blue Sky, Skunk Boy and Turkey Vulture have new glue in bolts but the old studs are still there and need to be cut and filled. Carrion still needs the 4 bottom bolts put in and studs cut. Those should be taken care of next week.
By Mikel Cronin
Jun 6, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
Scavenger Wall at Blue Sky is back in business. All the studs have been cut and filled and the missing bolts are installed.
By t.schwartz
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

can be 12+ with no chalk, awesome climb
By BBQ
Aug 9, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This truly is the route that all other Spearfish Canyon 5.12a should be judged by. It has it all and then some. Absolutely, positively the sickest line I have ever done. If you only have one morning to spare on your road trip to our fine canyon, start your session with Tasting Time, then do Indecent Exposure, get on Slabbath and cool down with either The Beast or The Conch. You will not be disappointed. For me this was a cool, August morning that I will never forget. Thanks for bolting Black Slabbath, Greg. This is one truly amazing climb!
By Greg Parker
Administrator
From: Cardiff, CA
Aug 11, 2013

That made my day! Thanks Brent!
By JR Cook
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 24, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Best sport route I have done to date! Do this route if you're in the area! Bolts are perfectly placed with great clipping stances, even though they may be spaced a bit farther than is the norm for Spearfish.

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