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Black Sails 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Adam Griffith
Page Views: 812
Submitted By: Jeremy Noring on Jun 8, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Black Sails is the route with the long fixed draw ...

Description 

This is a relatively new route to the area; a tree at the base of this route was removed when they widened the road.

A fun start on great rock, followed by a brief slab and a good no-hands near some underclings. From there, head into a bouldery roof section with fun moves and some hard pulling! Pull up and over the lip to clip the chains.

Location 

Located immediately to the left of Dust/Dirt, and to the right of Bitch.

Protection 

bolts to fixed anchors.


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By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 7, 2014

I'm pretty sure this is the right beta, although it's possible the name is wrong? Everyone at the crag knew this route as Black Sails.

Also, the guy here:

rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...

...claims to be the guy that bolted this. There used to be a tree at the base of this route, so it was a relatively new addition to the wall. You can see the tree in some photos lingering about here.
By SM Ryan
Jul 7, 2014

The 12c I am talking about went in about 15 years ago. So it must be to the left or right of this one since it is a new line.

They have it listed as the mountain route at rockclimbing.com, but I think it is mountaineer route. If I recall this route has a bulge in the middle, then a slab section and hard crux at the last 2 bolts.
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 8, 2014

Confirmed--my beta is correct. This is not the mountain route. It's black sails. FA was Adam Griffith. I'm not sure what the mountaineer route is, but it is not this one.

The description is similar, however--but black sails is definitely not 12c. It might be pretty soft at 12b.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 10, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Excellent route, techy and hard to read down low (11c ish) to a full rest into a bouldery section (scary clip with potential to tap the slab) followed by hero jug pulling to the top.

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