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Black Russian 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tom Kalakay, 1996
Page Views: 824
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Aug 12, 2013

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Renn on Black Russian


This route is 2 lines right of Fright Train on the undercut right side of Training Wall. Get up to the undercut rail and easily clip the first bolt. Pull up to good pockets and yard your feet onto the rail. The route basically follows the bolt line straight up. Great moves in spite of (because of?) 3 silky smooth 2-finger pockets round out a crux and then some spiny dishes and crimps over a bulge will get you to the top.

  • If this is 11d, then China Crisis is 12c ... or if China Crisis is 12a, then this is 11b.


8 bolts to anchor

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By Beau Skelton 1
May 31, 2016
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Surprisingly hard route. Crux is without a doubt between the 4th and 6th bolt. Clipping the 5th on lead can be heady. Once you've got to the only rest on the route after the bulge above the 5th, there is another crux which is climbing open hand grip on a large sloping ledge. Bullet proof rock, solid holds, excellent moves, sustained and great. I agree with 11C/D.

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