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Black Rocks

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Black Rocks Boulders 
Shady Side 
Shady Side West 
Sunny Side 

Black Rocks Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 3,244'
Location: 37.155, -113.6072 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 45,281
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 28, 2004
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Somewhere at Black Rocks.

Closed March 15 through June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

These short, black, basalt walls are located very close to town. A warm micro environment on otherwise cold, sunny, winter days, the area is quite popular.

The area was developed with bolted sport lines in the mid-nineties by Tupper and Goss, but trad lines were done as early as the late eighties by Olvesky.

The routes are easily divided into a southeast-facing Sunny Side and a northwest-facing Shady Side.

The majority of the routes on the Sunny Side are in the 5.8 to 5.10 range. The Shady Side routes range from 5.8 to 5.13, with the largest number in the 5.10 range.

This is a great place after a big rain when all of the area's sandstone is wet, and when it is cold out.

Getting There 

From downtown Saint George, drive north on Bluff Street (don't turn left towards Santa Clara). Drive approximately 1.5 miles past the turn to Snow Canyon State Park, passing the parking area for the Chuckawalla trailhead on the left.

Park here and walk north on the bike trail a hundred feet or so, then branch left onto the canyon trail. The trail crosses a fence with a tortoise barrier.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.0 miles from here

82 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',44],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',5],['5.8',6],['5.9',14],['5.10',30],['5.11',8],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Black Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black Rocks:
Objective Reality   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 35'   Sunny Side
The Stem From Heck   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Shady Side
The Fella's   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Sport, 35'   Shady Side
Welcome to Black Rocks   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   Shady Side
Keystone Arete   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   Sunny Side
Moses Had a Stick Clip   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Sunny Side
Extinction   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Shady Side
The Beginning    5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 40'   Shady Side
Galactic Cannibalism   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Sunny Side
Mickey Mantle   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Sunny Side
Lunar Orbit   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 35'   Sunny Side
Degenerate Matter   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 40'   Sunny Side
Oh My Hell   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Sunny Side
Dark Matter   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 40'   Sunny Side
What Was I Thinking   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Shady Side
Event Horizon   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 40'   Shady Side
Black Friday   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Sunny Side
Gravitational Attraction   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Sunny Side
Flying off the Handle   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   Shady Side
Slap Happy   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Shady Side
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black Rocks

Featured Route For Black Rocks
Rock Climbing Photo: Cafe Late boulder

Cafe Late V3 6A PG13  Utah : Saint George : ... : Black Rocks Boulders
Obvious line of pockets up the face of boulder. Super fun, heady topout...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Black Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Haley rapping down after cleaning a route. Somewhe...
Haley rapping down after cleaning a route. Somewhe...
Rock Climbing Photo: the sunny side... in late December
the sunny side... in late December
Rock Climbing Photo: At Black Rocks.
At Black Rocks.
Rock Climbing Photo: shady side
shady side
Rock Climbing Photo: sunny side
sunny side
Rock Climbing Photo: sunny side and shady side
sunny side and shady side
Rock Climbing Photo: black rocks
black rocks
Rock Climbing Photo: Popular toproping area with a minimal approach.  C...
Popular toproping area with a minimal approach. C...

Comments on Black Rocks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Jan 18, 2007
Is it possible to divide this area into the sunny side and shady side, and then group the routes accordingly? It would make it a lot easier for users to plan a trip (rather than looking at every route to determine where it is).

I sure wish these cliffs were taller...

MM
By DanielRich
Nov 19, 2008
I was curious, alot of these routes need slings to toprope. Does anyone know how long the slings need to be?

I was planning a road trip to visit some relatives in st. george and wanted to take some of them climbing while I was there.
By Fett
Nov 8, 2009
I find it strange that people complain about bolted cracks at Crawdad but not here. Seems like the same set up as Crawdad except the fact that you have to pay to climb in Crawdad. Both places are still fun to climb, love the sic nar pockets.
By Matthew Oliver
From: Salt Lake City
Feb 29, 2012
I have not seen anyone mention that this crag is closed from mid March to June 30th every year due to desert wildlife conservation (Desert Tortoise). If you are planning a trip in the spring, count Black Rocks out.
By Chris Celani
From: Ivins, Utah
Jul 25, 2012
Best bet is to use a four foot sling, but you may still get a little rope ware do to some of the angles.
By Natalie Rose
Nov 22, 2012
Just a word about climbing etiquette: if draws are left up on a climb, they haven't been abandoned, and it does not mean you are entitled to take them. I came back the next day and my draws had been taken off 'Flying off the Handle.' I walked over to the sunny side and asked a group, and they immediately gave them back and said I shouldn't leave my draws in such a popular area. I know you run the risk of getting draws stolen when you leave them up, (in this case it was overnight) but if you take them, it is still stealing. Feel free to use them, but don't steal them. Fun climb! Great work to the gumbie who made it to the top in efforts of stealing on thanksgiving day!
By John Reynolds
Sep 4, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Climb at Black Rock
Climb at Black Rock


Can any one identify this climb? I have dug through all the Black Rock climbs and can't seem to identify it.
By Brandon Rogers
Feb 21, 2017
Does anyone know anything regarding the boulders here at Black Rocks? Has anyone established/named anything, has anyone ever published anything, etc.? Granted, the boulders here are pretty few and far between, and the quality/quantity of lines certainly doesn't come close to Moe's or other areas nearby, but the fact that you can climb here the day after a good rain is enough for me to go play around on them. I realize that Black Rocks is a nature reserve and desert tortoise sanctuary, so minimal/no impact to landings is a given. Most boulders were just off the main trail or in the wash itself, so again, minimal/no impact. I just have a hard time believing that with how long climbers have been coming here that nobody has put anything up. Some of the lower holds on a few of the boulders were chalked up, seemingly played on, but most of the lines and holds were pretty dirty. However, after a little bit of cleaning (which is pretty easy with this tough basalt), some pretty rad lines went down. Any info would be great before I go posting stuff on here.
BR
By Alex Temus
From: Small Town, USA
Feb 21, 2017
You don't see many places like this with so many different routes every few feet on both sides of the canyon, it kinda feels like nature's version of a climbing gym! Very easily accessible sport and trad routes, seems like they would be easy to top rope as well. Only wish the walls were taller.
By Chandler Harr
Aug 24, 2017
Awesome area! The closest thing to an outdoor gym with nearly all day access. My wife and I were climbing until almost noon two weeks ago in August and were still in the shade. The only thing that is difficult about it sometimes is distinguishing which route is what as routes are very near to each other in places.

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