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Black Rabbit 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Brian Elliot, Cyndie Bransford & Beth Renn, 1995
Page Views: 1,110
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Black Rabbit

Description 

Good positioning on arete with positive hands leads to a pure slab finish. The rock is a little grainy, but not too bad.

Protection 

Four bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap


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By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Dec 13, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A fun and worthwhile route to do once the somewhat unpleasant approach is done. A more enjoyable route than White Rabbit with more interesting moves and position and far better protection.
By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 14, 2007

Where is this climb? Its not listed in my 1992 Vogel guide.
By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Mar 14, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It's on the arete 15' right of White Rabbit. Fun climb.
By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Jan 29, 2012

All bolts on this have been replaced today along with a nice new anchor.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 30, 2012

^^^^^

So you added a bolt anchor??? What about the pro to 4 and the walkoff?
By Richard Shore
Jan 30, 2012

It would take more time to thread the rope through new rap anchors than do the 10 second walkoff.
By Bob Gaines
Jan 30, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Thanks Todd, for authorizing that, and thanks to the bolt replacers for their hard work and effort....it's not exactly the easiest place to get to. The new anchor is a definite upgrade. I remember leading the climb, and downclimbing 15 feet down the backside to get solid gear to rig a TR.

It's a rarely visited spot with 4 great climbs, and the new bolts and anchor are a nice upgrade by experienced locals who know what they're doing and who have devoted much time and energy into replacing hundreds of Josh's aging bolts. It's a safer and higher quality experience now.

A better approach may be to ascend the hillside a few hundred yards to the right (where there are no boulder piles) then traverse left along the ridgetop, then drop down to the area. That's the way I descended the last time I was up there and it seemed like a much easier deal.
By Tradiban
Dec 20, 2013

Solid fun, using the arete at the top is easier. The anchor is a good edition.

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