|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 250'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||B. Gillett, D. Snively, 2002|
|Submitted By:||Guy H. on Jan 3, 2009|
|Comments on Black Powder||Add Comment|
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By Ben Burnett
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|Great climb, nice cracks, good gear at the cruxes. I combined the first 2 pitches, didn't find any pins, but belayed on very small cams at the base of the gully. Used doubles of most cams up to a #2 Camalot. The #3 was good to have after the crux. I ran the rope over the roof (not around the end of the roof) and had no concerns about it getting into the crack.|
From: Pinewood Springs
Dec 28, 2014
At the roof lip, we didn't see how it would be possible to place gear on right as described here and also in Gillett's guidebook, that crack is not even close by.
You do not want to leave any gear at the lip the roof! Your rope can get caught with the gear and be very difficult to pull. Better would be to place pro at lip, make the lip move, place more pro higher in crack then reach back down to remove the pro at the lip.