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Black Peeler Buttress

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Gem Stone , The 
Peeler Face 
South Face 

Black Peeler Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.5736, -111.7488 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,105
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 16, 2004

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The last pitch. Photo courtesy of Andrew Burr.

  • On private land. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    You wake up one morning, say this morning. It is going to be a fine, warm, Saturday in October as approaching storms threaten a major change. You want to climb somewhere away from the crowds that you feel may swarm the canyons today. Come to the Black Peeler. From the top of my routes, I could see no less than 30 cars parked at the Gate. However, there were just my party and one other on the entire Peeler Buttress.

    The definitive Ruckman guide divides the Peeler Buttress into a South Face and the southeast-facing Peeler Face. This division is used here for convenience and familiarity.

    Getting There 

    Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.

    If this makes you nervous, skirt the signs by 50 feet and bushwhack up to the road.

    Follow the dirt road to the point where it turns east at an eroded switchback and continue west on foot trails. These trails will get you to the routes in 15 minutes or so.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 3.5 miles from here

    40 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Black Peeler Buttress

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black Peeler Buttress:
    Peeler Direct   C2     Aid, 1 pitch, 100'   Peeler Face
    Western Grebe   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 460'   South Face
    Fool's Paradise   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   South Face
    Black Peeler   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 375'   Peeler Face
    Great Grebes, Batman!   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   South Face
    Orangutan Afternoon   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 150'   Peeler Face
    Sportsman's Paradise   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 215'   South Face
    The Serpent   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200'   Peeler Face
    The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Peeler Face
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black Peeler Buttress

    Featured Route For Black Peeler Buttress
    Rock Climbing Photo: From the GWI parking lot, with belays and line dra...

    All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! WI5 M6 R  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Peeler Face
    Named after watching the daily gong show on the GWI from across the road. We spotted 6 separate parties on the ice bombing each other, and one more descending, all at the same time! Entertainment at it's finest! See photo for details on the location. Pitch One: Climb a low angle ice smear up to the headwall and belay on some old bolts from a summer rock route. Very moderate climbing, but unprotectable in the conditions that we found. In thicker conditions, solid pro may be able to be placed...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

    Comments on Black Peeler Buttress Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Allen Sanderson
    From: Oootah
    Jun 25, 2009
    It should be noted that the Black Peeler Buttress and environs is on land owned by Perpetual Storage. The same respected for the property should be given by climbers as the adjacent private land (ie. the Gate Buttress and the LDS Church).

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