Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Black Peeler Buttress

Select Area...
Peeler Face 
South Face 

Black Peeler Buttress Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.5736, -111.7488 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,123
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 16, 2004
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The last pitch. Photo courtesy of Andrew Burr.

On private land. MORE INFO >>>


You wake up one morning, say this morning. It is going to be a fine, warm, Saturday in October as approaching storms threaten a major change. You want to climb somewhere away from the crowds that you feel may swarm the canyons today. Come to the Black Peeler. From the top of my routes, I could see no less than 30 cars parked at the Gate. However, there were just my party and one other on the entire Peeler Buttress.

The definitive Ruckman guide divides the Peeler Buttress into a South Face and the southeast-facing Peeler Face. This division is used here for convenience and familiarity.

Getting There 

Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.

If this makes you nervous, skirt the signs by 50 feet and bushwhack up to the road.

Follow the dirt road to the point where it turns east at an eroded switchback and continue west on foot trails. These trails will get you to the routes in 15 minutes or so.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.5 miles from here

35 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Black Peeler Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black Peeler Buttress:
Peeler Direct   C2     Aid, 1 pitch, 100'   Peeler Face
Western Grebe   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 460'   South Face
Fool's Paradise   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   South Face
Black Peeler   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 375'   Peeler Face
Great Grebes, Batman!   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   South Face
Sportsman's Paradise   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 215'   South Face
The Serpent   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200'   Peeler Face
The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Peeler Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black Peeler Buttress

Featured Route For Black Peeler Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: From the GWI parking lot, with belays and line dra...

All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! WI5 M6 R  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Peeler Face
Named after watching the daily gong show on the GWI from across the road. We spotted 6 separate parties on the ice bombing each other, and one more descending, all at the same time! Entertainment at it's finest! See photo for details on the location. Pitch One: Climb a low angle ice smear up to the headwall and belay on some old bolts from a summer rock route. Very moderate climbing, but unprotectable in the conditions that we found. In thicker conditions, solid pro may be able to be placed...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Comments on Black Peeler Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Allen Sanderson
From: Oootah
Jun 25, 2009
It should be noted that the Black Peeler Buttress and environs is on land owned by Perpetual Storage. The same respected for the property should be given by climbers as the adjacent private land (ie. the Gate Buttress and the LDS Church).