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Black Mountain

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Black Mountain North 
Main Cliff 
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Black Mountain  Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.92166, -71.74281 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,313
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Rob Niles on May 19, 2017
Forecast:
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Black Mountain's main cliff as seen from the parki...

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org

Description 

Black Mountain offers some great climbing in a very remote corner of Vermont. It has quality granite cracks of various sizes to keep you busy for a couple days. There is some potential for new stuff here and elsewhere in this region. The cliff itself falls into the track of land that is conserved by the Vermont Land Trust known as the Champion Lands, or Kingdom Heritage Lands. We have had no access issues or concerns climbing here for several years. Please be courteous of others and respectful of the land. Have fun and be cautious of loose rock.

Getting There 

Travel VT Rt 114 north and go approximately 3 miles past the town of Norton. Turn right on Gaudette Rd and proceed down the access Rd for the powerline. Washouts are possible along this stretch of road so make sure you have some ground clearance. The main cliff is 6.4 miles down the power line rd. Look for a small clearing for parking on the east side of the road. From the far end of the parking area, a trail leads through some recent logging activity to the right side of the cliff and is marked with flagging. (Approx. 15 min, Soggy in Spring)

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 10.8 miles from here

20 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',6],['5.9',1],['5.10',7],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Black Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black Mountain :
Climbmax   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Cliff
Wild Black   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Cliff
Jengarete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Main Cliff
Bikes-N-Ditches   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Main Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black Mountain

Featured Route For Black Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Traffic Jam

Traffic Jam 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Vermont : Black Mountain : Main Cliff
The beautiful finger/hand crack in the large corner beneath the roof. The most striking line at the cliff. Jam and stem to a fixed anchor beneath the roof. Lower off here, or better yet, make burly moves (5.11) through the roof to a bolted anchor 20' above. **Note: A piton lower off anchor was found about half way up the route on the right side from a previous attempt by an unknown party. It is unknown whether they were attempting the crack or the corner. This was the only sign of previous h...[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

Photos of Black Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Parking Area and Approach Trail
BETA PHOTO: Parking Area and Approach Trail
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting there
BETA PHOTO: Getting there
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting there
BETA PHOTO: Getting there
Rock Climbing Photo: The cave where the approach trail meets the cliff.
BETA PHOTO: The cave where the approach trail meets the cliff.

Comments on Black Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kris Fiore
Administrator
From: Burlington, Vermont
May 22, 2017
Hey, Rob! Thanks for adding this to the MP database! A great addition for climbers who want to get out into the far reaches of VT and away from the crowds!
By Ira O
From: Hardwick, VT
May 26, 2017
I went out there today on a rainy day reconnoiter. It is, for lack of a better word, amazing. It is a trad climbers paradise. its like nothing else in VT. Tons of splitter cracks, corners, and overhanging ominous aretes. Definately more routes than are described here at this point. However, there is a gate on the road that was closed and locked about 5 miles away from the cliff. It took me a solid 2 hours to walk in to the main cliff, without a pack. A mountain bike would have made this better. or better yet, not having a gate at all. I also saw a mother bear with 2 cubs, and then a mile past them, a big male bear, so watch out for that.
By Rob Niles
May 27, 2017
Ira, Glad you made it there! I've never seen the gate closed, not sure who is in control of it. There are a couple other ways there from the south, Henshaw Rd and Stone Dam Rd, but are much longer on the dirt. We'll get the rest of the routes uploaded shortly. Glad you liked what you saw.
By Dustin Dearborn
Jul 7, 2017
Was up there on Wednesday (July7). Moved the past winter's deadfall out of the approach trail and along the main cliff. Also did my best to mark the parking area with a large cairn, as well as the logging trail that circumvents the wetland area near the start. Watch out for log trucks on Gaudette Rd!
By Bob Zaino
Sep 14, 2017
I found some gear out at the cliff today that I don't think anyone intended to leave behind. If you can describe specifically what it is, I'll be happy to figure out how to return it to you.

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