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Black Market Organ Donor 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
Page Views: 1,300
Submitted By: Bruce Eng on Jul 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Erik top-roping Black Market Organ Donor (note led...


It appears that it is possible to approach the first bolt by either climbing up the left side of the spire on the sloppy looking holds or stemming on the right side the then reaching far out to the bolt. Starting on the left side is better and the holds are a more positive than they look. The technical crux comes slightly above the first bolt and involves an awkward balancy transition from the left to the right of the spire. From here good holds lead directly up to another bolt. Then the route becomes an easy (5.7ish) but scary run out ramp which approaches an overhanging bulge. From below the overhanging it is possible to lean back just slightly (be careful!) and reach a bolt up and on the right bulge. Once you clip this bolt, the physical crux is a small boulder problem to get over the bulge. Then the route proceeds up another easy ramp to the chains.


This climb starts in the main area to the right of the popular Jet Wind climb. It begins ascending directly up the spire but then transitions into a steep ramp that is difficult to see from the bottom.


There are around 4 of five bolts and good anchor chains. It is good to also have a few pieces of 1"-4" trad gear. From the bottom it appears like it might be possible to do with quickdraws alone, but when you are below the overhang and you are leaning backwards trying desperately to see where the next bolt is and your last draw is 20 feet below you, having gear will be nice.

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Rock Climbing Photo: See the two bulges way up there with the crack in ...
BETA PHOTO: See the two bulges way up there with the crack in ...

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By Plaidman
From: Portland, Oregon
Aug 15, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Way hard of the left. I would use the right side option for the start.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I climbed this route 9/09 without trad pro. The crux is easily protected by clipping the bolt above the ledge/nook (where there is evidence of a raptor nest). The climb is run-out about 15-20 feet before and after this, but the climbing is, at a liberal estimation, 5.4. Starting on the left at the bottom seemed to me the most logical way to go. Just my opinion.
By dmPete
Aug 24, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I'm not sure I understand the PG13 and R ratings on this route. Sure, there's a huge distance between the third and fourth bolt that could result in serious injury if the climber falls...but there are plenty of good places to plug a 1" or 2" cam to protect the moves up to that bolt. If this climb were listed as a mixed gear route, I think there wouldn't be much debate about the safety of this climb.

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