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Black Magic 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jamie Coin
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall: 100% Shady All Day.
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: BBQ on Aug 13, 2014

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Requires more than one bag of tricks. 

This is a fun ass route that starts on good holds that quickly become great. Cruise a line of awesome pockets that are totally fun as phuck. Take a nice break on a ledge and go for some sick side pulls that lead to the kick ass crux! Pick some pockets in a dihedral and find a SICK UNDERCLING with a gnarly, super-secure finger lock. Get those feet up and huck for a nice left hand pocket. Position your feet correctly and pray they stick. Secure your right hand on a nice ledge, stick a sick, left hand side pull and grab a great right hand side pull with all your might.

Huck with a long reach to a sick, right hand pocket that might be a bit muddy. BUTPHUCKIT! Turn that sloppy bitch into an under cling and get ready for the second shutdown crux. Get setup on the right feet and huck for another sick pocket and traverse and scream out for the anchors. If you like hard as hell climbs that let you get quite a few bolts off the ground before the going gets impossible get on this one and pull a rabbit out your ass.


Third true line of bolts from the left. First bolt can be clipped from the ground. Be carefull! This one shares a few bolts at the very bottom with Mister Fister. If you want more 5.12 hucking and hollering than 5.11 climbing be sure to head right.


Bring a dozen quick draws. Open anchors.

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