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Black Magic 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 143
Submitted By: Lurker on Mar 12, 2012

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Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>


Another Summit obscurity. This right-facing corner acts as a water funnel in early-season, and gets fairly dirty. However, when it cleans up, it's fantastic. Killer stemming dihedral to slightly less-vertical section. If this route ever got any traffic, it would be the best .10a on the Summit.


Obvious black dihedral between 2 bolted routes.


Gear to 3", 2 fixed pins (can place gear right next to them), chain anchors.

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By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
May 14, 2016

The pins may have pulled, I didn't see them. Very cool stem climbing on Tuolomne-esque pebbles with some jamming thrown in. It is hard to tell from below but it protects very well with small cams in the dihedral.

I came out a little moss sprinkled at the end, but besides a little seep at the bottom, this line climbs great. Overall this North Star Wall area is deserving of more traffic from the 5.10 leader and boasts fun to classic climbs.

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