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First pitch- Up through overhanging blocks split by a crack. I bypassed all this nonsense by jug hauling to the right. Next part of the pitch is very dirty.
Second Pitch- From bolted anchors up and right over a roof on tough finger locks. I never saw a pin anywhere. Up blank face and under a perfect hand crack splitting a big roof. Jam and then jug haul to the top.
The second pitch is what you're doing this route for. Dont be detered by the dirty first pitch.
On the Black Magic Buttress; starts 30' right of Trailside Trials.
Up to #3 camalot. Small cams for start of second pitch
negotiating the start of the first pitch
By American Dankster
Feb 6, 2012
pitch 2 gets 4 stars. skip pitch one by going up to the treasure chest and crawling thru the hole. You will end up at the anchors to pitch one.