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Black Magic

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Magic S 
Chalk On The Trigger S 
Climb Interrupted  S 
Distraction S 
Helix S 
Helix direct S 
Helixor S 
Hexed S 
Kronk S 
Lock and Load S 
Needles and Pins S 
Orogeny S 
Orogeny Extension S 
Ouija S 
Price Is Right, The S 
Problem Child S 
Simian S 
Stay on the Porch S 
True Lies S 
Tulsa S 
Unknown  S 

Black Magic Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.44472, -111.69582 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,222
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: richard magill on Aug 6, 2004
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Black Magic is home to the ultra-cool "Helix", a hard 12b (maybe a bit of a sandbag at that rating)that actually spirals up into the top of a big cave.One of the most unique routes you will ever do.

There are also many other routes, most of which are 5.12 and harder, including "Simian" (middle 5.13). There are a couple of 11ish routes as well, but not much else to warm up on.

As a destination, I like the Membrane or the Billboard better (more great routes), but this is worth visiting just for a trip up the Helix - fantastic!

Getting There 

You can park on the right about half a mile after the visitor center. If you walk up the road a bit, there used to be a pipe that you could use as a bridge across the stream - may still be there.

After crossing the stream , go right on the trail until you come to a big cave. This is it.

Climbing Season

For the American Fork Canyon area.

Weather station 1.2 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Black Magic

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black Magic:
Needles and Pins   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Kronk   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Orogeny   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Unknown    5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Helix   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Problem Child   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
True Lies   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   
Chalk On The Trigger   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Black Magic   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   
Simian   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black Magic

Featured Route For Black Magic
Rock Climbing Photo: Thomas Holmes working on getting established in th...

Helix 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Black Magic
If I were to list off a handful of the top middle 5.12 sport routes I've ever done, the list would probably start out something like this:- Rifle's "Pretty Hate Machine"- Cal Dome's "Ginsu"- VRG's "Mentor"- Cave Rock's "Fire in the Hole"- AF's "Helix"Strong enough endorsement?Anyway, if you find the Black Magic cave, you can't miss Helix.It starts on the left side of the cave and spirals up into a hole.Great fun!...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Black Magic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This may not be helpful, but the view from the pul...
This may not be helpful, but the view from the pul...
Rock Climbing Photo: Correct pullout for approach .3 mile upcanyon
Correct pullout for approach .3 mile upcanyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Black Magic Cave
BETA PHOTO: Black Magic Cave

Comments on Black Magic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Sep 14, 2013
Having never been to the BM cave till today, I found the directions here to be quite poor as the cave is a considerable distance downcanyon from the .5 mile pullout and the directions here made it sound nearby. Here are some better directions for a low water approach.

Park .3 miles upcanyon of the visitor center rather than .5 at a fairly big pullout on the NORTH side of the road with a huge scree field and powerline. The cave will NOT be visible through thick trees just south of the pullout. Cross the road and find a route across the river(rock hopping in low water). Head upcanyon through some trees on a faint trail till you hit rock, then it should be obvious as you spot the cave and wooden steps. max 5 minutes from river.

If its high water, you may have to park at the .5 mile pullout to find a log to cross the river(did not see pipe), then hike the .2 mile back downcanyon.
By Anson Call
From: Provo, UT
May 15, 2014
Does anyone have any info on the line immediately to the right of Helix? It goes maybe 6 or 7 bolts, straight up the slab and into a hole in the roof that's filled with guano. I can't seem to find any info anywhere. FWIW, I tried it out and it seems like a really fun climb.
By Leify Guy
Oct 10, 2014
@anson call, I've heard it's a 5.12a... that's about all I've been able to dig up about it

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