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Black Magic Woman 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 48
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Mar 20, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Topo showing new anchors in green, old in red

Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start up the black (often wet) stone to a steep dihedral. Jam and chimney up this to sloping ledges and a mantel finish.

As of 2017, an extension past the ledge, up the dark corner, to the top of the cliff and a set of new anchor bolts has been established.

Location 

In the black corner of the north-east facing wall. Right of Black & Tan, left of the sport routes on the golden east-facing wall.

Protection 

Gear to 3"
Lower anchors: 316 steel (2008)
Upper anchors: Titanium (2017)


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