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Black Magic Woman 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Christian Burrell, Tristan Higbee, April 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,767
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Apr 18, 2008

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Brett Anderson belayed by Christian Burrell on Bla...


A fantastic climb with perfect rock, a short approach, and awesome moves. Start at the base of the arete and climb past a couple bolts. The business starts after the second bolt. Get your feet up high, grab the big undercling/sidepull jug with your left hand and pinch an undercling a couple inches above that with your right hand. Hold it all tight while reaching up to a lousy pinch on the arete with your left hand. Re-adjust your feet and lunge for the jug out to the right. Footwork is key. Continue past a couple more bolts to the top, turning back onto the left side of the arete to use Black Rose's chains. The top of the climb is slightly runout but easy at 5.7ish.


This route goes up the south-facing arete of Black Rose. It starts where A Rose is a Rose starts and continues up the right side of the arete. The bolts are easily visible.


5 bolts to Black Rose's chains. A finger-sized cam or nut if you want to protect the slight runout to the top.

Photos of Black Magic Woman Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux done a bit differently / easier than the ...
The crux done a bit differently / easier than the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: awesome climb! one of the best up rock canyon Blac...
awesome climb! one of the best up rock canyon Blac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux Pinch
Crux Pinch
Rock Climbing Photo: Balance Moves after the crux.
Balance Moves after the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is my choice beta - see review below for walk...
This is my choice beta - see review below for walk...
Rock Climbing Photo: We spotted this guy showing how to do the crux in ...
We spotted this guy showing how to do the crux in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The bolt placement on Black Magic Woman.
BETA PHOTO: The bolt placement on Black Magic Woman.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 18, 2013
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Apr 18, 2008

This climb is awesome and should be a classic. Beautiful black and orange rock and great moves. As far as the slight runout on top goes, we were going to put a bolt there, but the rock is super hollow, thanks to the crack running behind it. Plus, there's a crack on the left (west) side of the arete, anyway. If you make it through the 5.11 crux, you're not going to fall at the top. But if you want some protection anyway, bring a finger-sized cam or nut. As far as the rating goes... we're not sure exactly. We're thinking 5.11c minimum. Any other comments on the grade would be much appreciated.

EDIT: A tall friend of ours did this climb and thought it was 5.11a, so maybe 5.11c is a bit harder than it actually is. I'll change the rating once we get more feedback.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 21, 2008

I'm starting to think it is 5.11b but the guy who thought it was 11a is well over 6 feet tall! Still, when you hit the rad right hand side-pull, from the crappy arete pinch: you can't help but think "now that's fun!" The runnout at the top is really easy but a small/med. nut in the crack on the left would give you peace of mind.
By Clay Allred
From: Moab UT
Jun 12, 2008

Hey great route guys, I thought it was really fun. You can't blame Johnny too much for being a super tall kid :) I was wondering if you couldn't put a bolt on the left side of the flake on the top after you come around the arete? It would be a nasty fall if someone didn't have a rack.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Jun 13, 2008

We debated a lot over whether or not to put a bolt on top. We would have loved to put one higher up on the right side, but the right side of the arete near the top is really hollow, thanks to the crack running right behind it--it's just a giant flake. As for putting one on the left side like you recommended, that would mean putting the bolt right next to the crack, which is something neither Christian nor myself really want to make a habit of. If someone is really worried about that upper section, I think they've got the following choices: toprope the route, borrow a cam or nut, or go to Mountainworks and spend $15 on a nut. In my opinion, not having a rack or a piece does not justify bolting a crack.
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Jul 8, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Being lazy and weak, I found a different sequence through the crux that doesn't use the crappy pinch on the left arete. After initially trying the obvious sequence and falling off the left arete, and having watched a couple of others grunt through it, my method seemed a fair amount easier (although it's still strenuous and requires trusting itty-bitty feet).

In any event, come and get on this route before the key hold falls off (it's loose).
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 8, 2008

Which hold is loose?! The huge jug?
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Jul 8, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Yeah, the sidepull/undercling jug just before the crux is loose.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 12, 2008 would still go without the huge jug. It will be more difficult though.
By Klimbien
From: St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Apr 30, 2009

As of 4.28.09 the jug was there, but loose ~ I made sure to tread as lightly as possible. The sequence didn't quite come together for me, but after hang dogging it I'd agree with the 5.11b-ish/c-ish. I can see how being taller would be advantageous. Great line! As far as the run out on top...I did not think it was an issue, pulling onto the face is well protected by the last bolt and then b/c of the angle change, even if you arms are pumped, the feet are solid and allow for easy climbing - giving way to the anchor.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 30, 2009

I TRed it the other day and tested out the jug...I yanked and pulled as hard as I could and it's not coming out for a while. I guess we could go and glue it but I'm not worried about it for a long time.
By Taylor Zmoos
Nov 9, 2009

The top of this is pretty run out. I climbed to the right and then just leaned over the top and clipped, then threw the rope around to get lowered off. Might have been able to climb directly to the chains, but i thought it was safer going to the right.
By Daniel Hansen
Dec 17, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Awesome climb!! Definitely one of my favorites in the canyon. It is heavily overrated though. There is really one hard move and if you gaston left hand toe hook the edge and bump your right hand from the climp to the edge of the flake it is maybe a 10d move (see beta photo above), I have a fairly big ape index though so it may be harder for shorter climber. -Awesome climb though!
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Dec 17, 2009

When we did it, we didn't use the right edge or any holds around the left side. Using either of those might very well make it easier. Rate it however you climb it!

@Taylor: It's not runout if you bring a nut or cam for the crack, like it says in the beta.
By Rob Job
From: Provo, UT
May 2, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Super fun climb. Love the extension out to the arete. Some BETA: Clip the third bolt from the side pull before the arete with high feet, otherwise you may be in for a little decking action. After coming out of the arete you are home free. Last little bit is run out but there is a nice crack to follow to the shared chains.
By Canyon Copa
May 31, 2012

Fun feature to climb, but not very sustained. Basically one tough move and you're home free. Very drawn out to the chains but sounds like that is in the process of being resolved. Definitely worth doing once.
By Thomas Holmes
From: Utah
Jul 7, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I must have walked passed this route a 100 times, so i finally decided to give it a go. The harder moves are well protected, the easier moves not so much. This is a climb for a cold day and defiantly worth doing. Short and sweet...
By AdamHardy
From: Provo, UT
Sep 17, 2012

Admittedly, I'm pretty tall, but I made a big reach from the jug to the right side by means of a layback and toe hook on the right edge. It took me a few tries, but I made it. I'll have to go back and try the crappy pinch because I may have made it harder than it needed to be.
By Tristan Mayfield
From: SLC, UT
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

So, I usually climb in the 10s, but I'm 6'3" and almost flashed this guy, so height really helps a ton. I don't know if anyone else used it, but there's a small indention on the left side of the arete that made it so much easier to make the move over to the right. Pretty balancy after that. Such a good climb!
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 18, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

A true two-move wonder. Easy 5.10 climbing with two stiff moves at the third bolt.

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