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The Wiswall Boulders aka Thompson Farm
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Abyss, The 
Black Magic 
Black Magic right 
Captain No-hands 
Crack, The 
Dark Slot, The 
Dolph's Traverse 
Fireball 
Friction Fiction 
Fun Ladder 
Lunch or Plunger 
Lunge or Plunge 
Magic Carpet Ride 
Magician 
Man Handle 
Palm Reader 
Pimp My Ride 
Shorty 
Slope Dope 
Sloppy Seconds 
Warm 
Warmer 
White Magic 
Wiz Kid, The 
Wiz, The 

Black Magic right 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: Rich Brereton on Apr 9, 2017

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Description 

This variation adds a few great moves to Black Magic and tops out around the corner on the tallest point of the boulder, making an already-excellent problem truly superb.

Start as for White/Black Magic, work right past the crack to a rail just above the lip of the roof, then continue rightward to holds at the lip and feet on tiny edges. Gaston or cross into a layback on the left-facing crack, then reach around the prow to the right facing crack. Work your feet up, make a big move to the lip of the boulder, and float the chill but high topout.

Feels about as hard as Magician, which to me is solid V6. Both of these problems would be sought-after classics if they were at Pawtuckaway.

Protection 

Good idea to bring at least two pads, one for the traverse and one for the topout. As with most problems here, the landing is mostly nice and flat.


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