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Reconciliation T 
Retaliation T 
Upper Refuse T 
Webster's Unabridged T 
Youth Challenge T 

Black Lung 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: H Barber, D Cilley, F Dean 10/1/1979
Page Views: 9,532
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (144)
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Alex high up on Blacklung...


If this route would just go on forever, my life would be complete. The flow of movement and aesthetics on this climb are great. The only problem is the it's only 100ft long. For a great climb of a consistent grade, climb Bombardment(5.8) to Black Lung, to Final Gesture (5.8), an awesome link up.

For Black Lung, start up easy ground. It's maybe 5.6 for the first 2/3 of the route. Follow cracks and jugs to a pretty right-facing corner/crack. Move through a technical crux, which consists of 5.8 jamming and finding the somewhat hard to locate feet (mostly out right). This will leave you at the first belay on Upper Refuse (5.5).

Belay from here, or run all the way to the top of Refuse with a stretch of a 60m rope. It's also possible to finish up Final Gesture which is a fave of mine.


Black Lung is on the far right hand side of the Barber Wall Ledge--just right of the ramp start of Upper Refuse and left of the Book of Solemnity.


Regular rack.

Photos of Black Lung Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Devon
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading black lung right before the really fun ...
Me leading black lung right before the really fun ...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 25, 2016
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 1, 2008

This route is quite good and well protected but, PLEASE place gear near the top , I have seen several whips and some injuries when leaders rush the end and don't place gear.
By Tuxebo
From: Middletown, RI
Sep 1, 2008

This crack is a lot of fun and only a little bit of pain. Unless you forget to place gear at the crux, only to discover you couldn't pull it. Ouch.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Dec 28, 2008

This is a great route. Another fun link-up of sorts is Bombardment (5.8) to Black Lung (5.8) to Upper Refuse (5.5), it is a lot of fun, there is a little "wandering" to get to each route but a very fun way to the top.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 28, 2008

I like to finish up Final Gesture, a little more commiting but super fun at about the same grade as Bombardment and Black Lung...
By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

An awesome route with good rests, hand jams everywhere, and easy gear. Might be a good one to break into the grade on.
By Evan1984
Nov 9, 2009

Been on this twice and chickened out and hung both times before easily pulling the crux.

My advice is to protect the crux from the stance. Then,do as I say, not as I do. Sack up and pull the move. It's over quickly. I can get a great #3 BD down a little low in the crux and a 1/.75 from the stance.
Just make sure to protect it.

By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Nov 9, 2009

Evan, were you on this route yesterday?
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Apr 27, 2014

Is the 4" cam mentioned in the book a key piece? I dont have one..
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Apr 27, 2014

I have climbed this route a couple times and never had a #4 with me, use care and protect in the obvious stances and you will be good to go
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Apr 27, 2014

Whats the largest piece besides the 4? I have up to a #3 Helium Friend. Of course I can always stop in at IME and get a few bigger pieces...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 27, 2014

#3 Camelot for the last piece
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 20, 2014

You do not need a #4. I don't think I've ever placed anything bigger than a gold Cam on this pitch. This little route, BTW, is just about the nicest 50 feet of climbing at the grade to be had on the cliff. Steep, juggy moves, great rests, amazing gear, and a stout little crux right at the top (hint: think handjam and high right foot on a great little edge). Don't be intimidated by the looks of the thing...just do it!
By Russ Keane
Sep 8, 2015

We did not need or use a #4.

This route is what rock climbing is all about. Truly exciting and challenging, yet fair for the grade. My favorite line at Cathedral so far!
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
May 18, 2016

Not that it hasn't already been mentioned but this is a GREAT climb! Definitely one of my top three favorites on the cliff. Great rests/ gear placements!
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 19, 2016

More grounders than all other routes on Cathedral combined..I don't know why..i have participated in 3 rescues of grounders myself..please place gear
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 25, 2016

John is right. For some odd reason this climb sees a lot of falls. The holds are all great and the protection is fantastic, and so it is a bit of a mystery. So I second John, place great gear often, make sure that it is set up for the direction of potential force, and use slings when necessary to minimize gear levering out. This route can be led with a very high degree of safety!

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