|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Nick Martel, Kristina Bergdahl-Martel '14|
|Season:||Fall, Winter, Spring|
|Submitted By:||Eric Sophiea on May 3, 2014|
|Comments on Black Lightning||Add Comment|
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By Andrew Nelson
May 3, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|Fun route. Getting into the second bolt is balancy, and getting through the second crux is fun!|
From: Tucson, Arizona
May 4, 2014
So Yes there is a runout on 5.6-5.7 terrain but you could protect it if you feel the need, and as long as you don't jump off the ledge you will be OK.
Regarding the block... the wood handle of our hammer actually snapped trying to pry it off and I had to place the bolts holding the just head of the hammer in my hand. We tried yanking on it etc... and we could not remove it with what we had that first day, we have since returned with a crowbar and it is still not going anywhere. Kristina and I also painted the hangers primer brown.
Regarding the route (from memory) huge jug-rail to balance moves on small crimps sidepull seam through 2 bolts then it ledges off for 10-15' before heading up the overhanging headwall. You can climb left of the bolts in the black crack on a good jam and a harder jam or stay in line/right of the bolts for a hero jug romp, either way the headwall is the physical crux. It's a hard route to grade because it requires a certain minimum strength and technique but if you have them then it is easy. In our journal I wrote "5.9 but probably more like 9- with more refined beta", however Kristina wrote "Solid 9". Eventually IF people ever climb here a consensus will emerge. It is as hard as it is.
Enjoy and Be Safe