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Apache Peak
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Black Knight 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R [details]
FA: Bill Wright and Mark Oveson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,313
Submitted By: Mark Oveson on Aug 26, 2005

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Black Knight on right, Bishop's Scepter on left.


So named because of its position on the darker west side of the Shoshoni-Apache ridge, the Black Knight is a prominent tower that is worth the short detour off the beaten path. From the Bishop, descend to the west past the Bishop's Scepter to the base of the rock. This approach provides an excellent view of the route--don't forget to preview it as you go.

The route follows the Black Knight's east ridge. Climb a steep 40-foot dihedral and chimney system on positive holds to a prominent shoulder. Walk to the base of the summit tower and engage it via a grungy chimney. Be careful not to pull down any of the large rocks poised at the top of the chimney. Views from this vantage are unique and excellent. Be sure to identify Fair Glacier, Triangle Lake, and Lone Eagle Peak from your lofty post.


Light rack

Photos of Black Knight Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route on the Black Knight.
BETA PHOTO: Route on the Black Knight.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Oveson climbing the crux dihedral on the Blac...
Mark Oveson climbing the crux dihedral on the Blac...

Comments on Black Knight Add Comment
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By Kenan
Aug 29, 2010

I wanted to emphasize the presence of loose rock on this one. We tried the documented route (climber's left) and also the gash in the middle of the formation and decided to back off after I kicked off a giant block. Be careful - this thing is a chosspile!
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

Originally the plan was to lead up and then lead back down, therefore leaving nothing behind. Upon leading up and discovering the true horror of the rock quality, we decided to build an anchor and (very carefully) rappel off. As of today, there is a new anchor to replace the shredded tat that we found on top, a sturdy rock pinch with new webbing.

And as mentioned elsewhere, be VERY cautious both leading and belaying this climb! Enough cannot be said about the dismal rock quality....

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