REI Community
Durrance Approach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black-Jones Direct T 
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 
Direct Southwest T 
Double-Edged Blade T 
Durrance T 
Fritz's Fantasy S 
interesting problem below, The T 
Late for Dinner T 
Liken Lichen T 
Lovely Liana T 
Manifest Destiny T 
P.O.T.C. T 
Pseudo- Wiessner T 
Rangers Are People Too T 
Sundance T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Wiessner T 

Black-Jones Direct 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown FFA Steve Jones, Carol Black 7/7/79
Page Views: 840
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on May 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


A steep, clean finger crack in a dihedral with a short thin section requiring tip-locks or a big reach. The walls of the corner are smooth and largely devoid of features, making for some committing stemming. At about 2/3 height, Manifest Destiny traverses into this corner and the crack widens to fists with some chockstone moves interspersed. This line doesn't seem to receive much traffic, but stays surprisingly clean.


Between POTC and Manifest Destiny on the right side of the SW face. Two cracks left of the Leaning Column on Durrance.


Finger cams (blue-orange TCU with emphasis on yellow) and stoppers. 2 #3 camalots and maybe a new #4 for the top wider bit.

Comments on Black-Jones Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sean Nelb
From: Indian Creek
May 10, 2011

This route and the ones around it have morning shade. The routes here, Lovely Liana, POTC, Black-Jones, and Manifest Destiny are all close together, can be gotten off of with a single 70 m rope and some 4th class downclimbing, never have traffic, and are high quality. Hang out with the folks lining up for Durrance and make them jealous as you climb pitch after pitch while they sit around.
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Jul 24, 2016

Nice finger crack to hands/fists. There are a few chockstones when the crack widens up where care should be taken, but they can be stemmed around. The anchor is shared with Manifest Destiny, 5.9 hands and fists. The anchor is two old rusty bolts with homemade hangers.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About