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Black Jack Boulders

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Beginners Area 
Behind Zig Zag Boulder 
Black Jack Boulder, The 
Block, The 
Blue Flag Trail Boulder 
Dill Boulder, The 
Eastern Bulge Boulder  
Entrance Boulders 
Fisher Block, The 
Headstone Boulder 
Inverted Boulder 
Long Slab Boulder 
Moat Boulder, The 
New Age Block 
Ricochet Boulder, The 
Spragueasorus Boulder (aka Underworld Boulder) 
Twin Boulders, The 
Umbrella Boulder, The 
West Black Jack - unsorted 
Zig Zag Boulder, The 

Black Jack Boulders Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.80288, -71.84167 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 50,581
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 19, 2006


88° | 64°

86° | 61°

86° | 61°

83° | 59°

70° | 47°
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looking down on the black jacks from up high


Scattered in the woods at the base of the hill, the Black Jack boulders offer some classic problems on great stone. The boulders start near the road and extend uphill almost to Waimea.

This area is complex as boulders lean upon boulders and caves abound. Take some time and explore this area and you will surely find some hidden classics as well as some first ascent potential. Must do problems include, but are not limited to: Zig Zag Crack V1, Umbrella Traverse V2, Black Jack Crack V2x, Spraguesorus V5, Pyramid Power V7, Satan on a Halfshell V10, and Satan's Choice V11.

The Black Jacks can be blissful on dry winter days, or torturous in the heat of summer. Since most of the boulders sit on or near lowlying marsh land, bug season arrives with a vengence in the Black Jacks.

Getting There 

Park in the lot. DO NOT PARK ALONG THE ROAD. Walk along the road single file on the left, facing traffic, to telephone pole 37 and follow a well-worn trail uphill into the woods. At the first big boulder you see, follow the trail left, through the Black Jacks.
Or better yet, follow the graded path path from the small parking lot and take the Short Cut trail traversing the hillside west from the top of the wooden staircase which leads to the left side of the Main Cliff. Once past the midway boulder, don't head up the hill like going to Bonsai, but continue straight, under Monsters until you reach the Blackjack's Entrance boulder. This is only 5 minutes more and keeps you off the road, keeping the locals happy and you not run over. Plus you go by more great bouldering.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.2 miles from here

136 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',63],['1 Star',34],['Bomb',2]

Classic Climbing Routes in Black Jack Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black Jack Boulders:
Zig Zag Crack   V1 5     Boulder   The Zig Zag Boulder
The Umbrella Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   The Umbrella Boulder
Moose Tracks   V2 5+     Boulder   The Zig Zag Boulder
Firestarter   V3 6A     Boulder   The Moat Boulder
Up Into The Green Silence   V4 6B     Boulder, 14'   The Fisher Block
Inverted Siberian Husky   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   Inverted Boulder
Spragueasorus   V5+ 6C+     Boulder, 15'   Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ...
Fisher Fissure   V6 7A     Boulder, 12'   The Fisher Block
Child Prodigy   V6 7A     Boulder   The Moat Boulder
Knock Your Block Off    V6 7A     Boulder   The Block
Bobby's Arete   V6-7 7A+     Boulder, 14'   Entrance Boulders
Bobby's Problem   V7 7A+     Boulder, 18'   Entrance Boulders
Nowhere Man   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ...
Pyramid Power   V8 7B     Boulder   Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ...
Cavers Direct    V8+ 7B+     Boulder   Entrance Boulders
The Block Problem   V9- 7C     Boulder, 12'   The Block
Satan's Sister Sally   V10 7C+     Boulder   The Umbrella Boulder
Satan on a Halfshell   V10 7C+     Boulder   The Umbrella Boulder
Satan's Choice   V12 8A+     Boulder   Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ...
Black Jack Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+     Trad, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'   The Black Jack Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black Jack Boulders

Featured Route For Black Jack Boulders
Rock Climbing Photo: Hitting the 'pyramid' on 'Pyramid Power' v8  photo...

Pyramid Power V8 7B  New Hampshire : *Rumney : ... : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ...
There are a number of different ways to do this problem, and they are all pretty hard. Start sitting on the obvious crimp rail and head up and left. Some people use the small crimp in the horizontal crack, some people use a shallow undercling, and everybody uses the unusual pyramid shaped hold to eventually grab the jug on the arete and top out left. A great problem and one for which it may be beneficial to be a little shorter for a change. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of Black Jack Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Wallace warming up as I hiked by... 'Twas a p...
Matt Wallace warming up as I hiked by... 'Twas a p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike shoveling out a problem during the early seas...
Mike shoveling out a problem during the early seas...
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading to blackjack during a winter session.  Bla...
Heading to blackjack during a winter session. Bla...

Comments on Black Jack Boulders Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 18, 2017
By Lanky
From: Tired
Aug 22, 2008
Any reason the Blackjack's are divided up by specific boulder instead of considering the whole area one... um, area?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 22, 2008
it might have started because the Black Jack Boulder is like a mini crag... but i think it makes sense to break it down, makes it easy to navigate... would be great if someone would make a map of the boulders...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Dec 15, 2008
I think it is divided up because it is much easier to navigate, if you look at how the pound is set up it is confusing to figure out where some of the problems are, it would be really nice if the pound was split up by boulders.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jun 6, 2010
To approach the BlackJacks it is better to take the Shortcut Trail than to walk along the road. That helps avoid friction with drivers on the small road. It is only slightly longer time wise and it also takes you right by the awesome boulders below Monsters. Take the main trail from the small parking lot running west parallel to the road (lots of boulders on the hillside above, below the Main cliff), and head up the wooden staircase like you are going to Armed and Dangerous. Break left before you get there following the blue flags and traverse the hillside above the 5.8 crag and below Monsters. The trail will pop you out right at the Entrance boulder at the beginning of the Blackjacks.

If you follow the trail uphill before you get to Monsters, you will come to the cool overhanging bouldering ledges to the left (along the trial from Venus), or go left there to the boulders above Monsters
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Dec 20, 2010
Here are some video I found of Black Jack Bouldering, Enjoy!

Rumney has some great bouldering that I personally dont think gets enough credit!
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Dec 23, 2010
For everyone who likes to winter boulder in Black Jack, I left a broom in the cave/hole to the right of the Umbrella Boulder. I plan on leaving it there for the duration of the winter and you are more than welcome to use it. I just ask that if you use it try not to break it and please put it back when you are done with it. Happy sending :)
By eddysamson
Apr 29, 2015
I love this area but I find it hard to bring weaker climbers here. Does anyone else notice the general lack of V0-1's here? Or at least quality ones? For instance I think all of the 1's on the Ricochet boulder are hard and seem more like 2's (Cilley Groove, Left/Right Tracks) Ziz Zag crack doesn't feel like a 1 until you've done it like 3-4 times. The only non highball 0 I can think of in the whole area is that low left arete on the Umbrella Boulder.

What do you guys usually do if you have a weaker climber with you here?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Apr 29, 2015
Put cookies, a bottle of beer or a doobie at the top of the climb? Scrub some quality easier routes.
By eddysamson
Apr 29, 2015
Alright I am going to take you up on that and clean some this summer. I already spotted a few last time I was there. There is one to the left of Matt's Garden climb on the Ricochet boulder I think.
By Russ Keane
Aug 14, 2017
It's always hard to find good V0's ... at any bouldering area. In my opinion. The formations do not usually work that way.
By Kevin Wang
From: Brooklyn, NY
Aug 18, 2017
Is there some sort of map for Black Jack Boulders out there? Something like the rest of the super cool rumney maps by Lee Hansche?

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