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Cap Rock - North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anniversary Special T 
Ayatollah, The T 
Black Ice T 
Bush Eviction T 
Circus T 
Circus, Circus T 
Event Horizon T 
False Lieback T 
False Prophet T 
Horror-zontal Terror-verse T 
Icy, But Not Too Dicey T,TR 
Lil Squirt S 
Nutcracker T 
Retirement T 
Space Odyssey T 
Thin Ice TR 

Black Ice 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Brian Prentice, October 1985
Page Views: 653
Submitted By: C.K. on Jan 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Me (1992), just below the bolt. Pretty thin and st...


Very short 1 bolt climb, approx 20 feet right of False Prophet (uses same start).


1 bolt (3/8")

Bolt upgraded on 11/2013

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By Bob Gaines
Jan 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

With my permission, a friend added two protection bolts. These were subsequently chopped by an anonymous individual. I always thought the rule was: it is OK to add protection bolts to a route as long as you got permission from the first ascent party?

A nice little slab climb, but as it stands now, an andrenaline filled, R or X rated lead: if you fall on the 5.9 move getting to the bolt you'll get hurt bad!

By Gunkswest
From: CA
Oct 25, 2015

Unfortunately, as of 10-2015, there are now a total of four (4) chopped bolts on this route: two (2) before you move out left on the first thin section and two (2) up near the top above the one existing bolt.

This is a great little route and as Mr. Gaines mentioned, it's a shame folks decided to chop the bolts when the FA party agreed to upgrade the protection and make it a safer route for everyone...
By Bob Gaines
Dec 26, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

I agree. It's a shame this beautiful patina slab suffers the lasting scars from a petty little bolt war. When the bolts were chopped the first time my friend went back and added the retro bolts again, and they got chopped a second time.

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