REI Community
Right End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andromeda T,TR 
Black Holes Matter T 
Gamma Ray Arete T,TR 
Gemini T,TR 
Illegal Aliens T 
O'Ryan's Belt T,TR 
Quantum Entanglement T,TR 
Starboard Tack T,TR 
Starstruck T,TR 

Black Holes Matter 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: September 2016
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 19
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Jun 16, 2017

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Description 

Discovered while struggling on the neighboring project, this line was good enough to add fixed gear and create a separate line for.
Climb up initial slab at the large V-slot to reach the bottom of the first seam/crack in the bulge. Step right 4' along tenuous holds and stretch big to clip a bolt. Make a hard (crux) move to get through the bulge, clip again, and make another hard move to reach easier ground. Pleasant, milder climbing leads to the top.

Location 

Look for the system of discontinuous vertical seams 15' left of the large crack of O'Ryan's Belt. These begin at a bulge above the base slab, a few feet right of the right end of the high ledge system (that is, right of Starstruck ). This is the same start as Illegal Aliens.

Protection 

Cams to 1", with emphasis on micro and small. Small Tri-Cams are helpful as well.


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