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Black Hole 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 2,677
Submitted By: Ken Cangi on Jul 20, 2005  with updates from John Ross

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (157)
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Perin climbing Black Hole 5.10a.

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Black Hole is located on Division Wall's north face, just a few feet to the right of an obvious offwidth crack. The short, fingery crux is located between the second and third bolts, followed by highway cruising on large pockets and edges. All clips can be made from bomber stances, making this route a reasonable choice for aspiring 5.10 leaders.


7 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos of Black Hole Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Robert MacKinnon leading Black Hole
Robert MacKinnon leading Black Hole

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 6, 2015
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 22, 2005

in contention for A.F.'s greasiest route
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 29, 2005

Ken are you kidding? I think you like to hear yourself arugue. That route is SO greasy, are YOU sure you are talking about the same climb?
By Ken Cangi
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Sep 20, 2007

How do you equate my opinion that the route didn't feel greasy with arguing? The crimps at the crux are nice and crisp, and the big holds above aren't bad at all. And, yes, I am talking about the correct route.
By Robert MacKinnon
Jun 4, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Although I only gave it one star, I didn't think it was very greasy compared to other 5.10's at American Fork.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Getting greasier, but still a good route. The bolts are a bit spaced towards the top.
By jesse clayton
Jun 23, 2009

I loved it but compared to some ratings in big cottonwood I think its a 5.9+ ten is stretching it and IM a 5.10 climber , but it is very greasy.
By Andrew Seegmiller
From: Orem UT
Jan 2, 2010

I thought this climb was ok. the bolts were a little sketchy the closer and closer to the top you got. and wheen climbing the bottom on a lead, i felt like if i fell i was going to bounce off the basically stair sized ledges below me. each ledge is about 12 inches wide. other then the kind of shity bolting i thought it was a pretty fun climb, lots and lots of false chalk on thius climb. get to the top and look down
From: Texas
Jun 1, 2012

I'm not sure what all the hate is about. Sure some of the footholds were greasy, but I didn't feel like they were much worse than a lot of other AF routes. I thought the moves were really reachy and fun to great pockets. The foot work was trick as I tried to avoid the crappy, slick feet. For what its worth, I and everyone who did the route in our group had a really fun time with it.
By Brennan Crellin
From: Millcreek, UT
Jul 12, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun, interesting 5.10a. The 5.10 climber should be aware of ledges and climb with caution.
By bsmoot
Jul 12, 2012

Hey Andrew & Brennan:

If you don't like the bolting I did, please let me know how it's properly done...I'm willing to listen. For now, the route is what it is. For 20 years people have been climbing this route without whining about it. Some AF routes simply have sporty bolting. If you don't like these kind of routes, stay away from them.
By Broseph L
From: Sundance, WY
Aug 3, 2012

Haha, anyone who complains about the bolt spacing on this needs to climb up LCC.
By Eric Chabot
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 6, 2015

Recently retrobolted, this climb is now totally G rated

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