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Black Hole Sun 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Summit
Page Views: 2,218
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 4, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Kurt Jensen on Black Hole Sun

Description 

Located just to the right of the prominent chimney "Mark's Moderate." The rock on the route is black on some parts, and quite light on others. The crux is getting over the bulge right after the 3rd(?) bolt. Requires a fun yet bizarre move.

Protection 

5 bolts to top anchors. There's also a higher set of anchors that access the 2nd pitch.


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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 5, 2008

Terrific route that is different in character from the other routes at this crag. Technical moves and small but positive holds.
By daniel c
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 6, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Bee hive appears to be gone.
By Caliza
Dec 10, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Did this without the chimney, I think this route is harder than Napa Valley Party Service. Not the best but worth doing once.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 29, 2016

Weird.
By Burlen
Mar 25, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

a fun route. you'll fall on low angle slab ledge above 1st bolt if you blow the 3rd clip. that is the crux of the route. There is a juggy hold 6" up and to the right of a pretty positive crimp, that is itself 6" up and to right of the 3rd bolt.

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