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Black Gold 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Steagall Kevin Sandefur Chris Werner Dave Sobocan
Page Views: 3,082
Submitted By: 46and2 on Aug 14, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: The starting holds of Black Gold.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The crux of this similar Black Corridor route is at the beginning and a stick clip might be in order. Long ways between first and second bolts to so a tricky mantle is involved. Good sport route but shorties might find some of the clips hard to reach!


This route is the 6th route on the left wall (East Facing) in the upper Black Corridor and only 5 feet to the right of "Live Fast"; begin at a small right facing flake.


5 Bolts will find you at the fixed anchors for your rappel!

Photos of Black Gold Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: example of the right facing flake
example of the right facing flake
Rock Climbing Photo: past most of the reachy stuff
past most of the reachy stuff

Comments on Black Gold Add Comment
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By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Feb 6, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route can be a little reachy to the initial ledge and just past the second bolt. Requires some footwork...
By Sonnabend
From: West Saint Paul, MN
Sep 28, 2009

Stick clipping the first bolt on this would have been a good idea. Real crimpy up to the ledge then great the rest of the way up.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 22, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Quality route. I found there are two ways to do the bouldery moves off the ground. Either left, easier, or right, a bit more difficult. Either way you climb it, there will be a deadpoint move that will perhaps stymie the shorter climber.

The chains, and perhaps the bolts, could use a replacement. The rings are quite worn.
By steple
Mar 5, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Anchors are worn through almost half way.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 6, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

On 3/6/13, the ASCA replaced the hangers on the anchor of this route and equipped them with quicklinks.
By Fan Zhang
From: Washington, DC
Apr 7, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Per above comments, consider stick clipping first bolt, which spun as of 4/6/14. Also make sure you have a solid belayer experienced with catching low falls, as the moves to gain the ledge below the second bolt are reachy, crimpy, and big (I'm 5'9"). Opening sequence felt like 5.10d, but the rest of the route eases up a bit and was very fun.
By Laura Sowalskie
From: NY
Mar 25, 2016

Definitely glad I stick-clipped the first bolt. The move off the ground is fine, but the move to the first lip is very reachy for a shorter climber. Moving up past the second bolt is reachy as well. The beginning felt more like 10d at my height (5'5"). Comfortable climbing once you're past the 2nd bolt.
By Fernando Cal
From: Long Beach, CA
Apr 17, 2017

Fun start! Watch out for the boulder behind you, as a fall before the 1st bolt (crux) can put you in a weird place (hospital?). Stick clip recommended if not comfortable leading at the grade. Reach from the flake, but good holds after that. Fun start, middle and top was okay.
By Euan Cameron
From: Mammoth Lakes
Apr 18, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A good route spoiled by poor bolt placement.
By Eddie Ferrer
From: Portland, OR
Apr 19, 2017

Very height dependent. If you're short, it'll feel a grade or two higher.

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