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Black Gate 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Burgess Norrgard on Nov 5, 2008

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(from the Falcon Guide) "In the world of the verticle, how can something so horizontal be so troubling? 12' right of the overhang is a thin crack, just left of a large talus block. Up the crack, traverse slightly left, then up to the top"

Beautiful climb! It is a very thin finger crack first going up 40-50ft: First ascends a small left facing corner, then to open face crack, then to a larger right facing corner. The route then traverses to the left following a wide and positive horizontal crack, then continues up the crux a narrow seam/crack up an over a roof topping out another 20 ft up. Falcon Guide rates it 5.10a... but I think in reality it's closer to an 5.11 or upper level 5.10 (pin scar, pinky finger jams). Go out and climb it and decide for yourself!


Left of the Cithril Ungol... just left of the the gully up to top of "Jack Be Nimble", etc...


Smaller pro... small nuts, cams no bigger than a #1 camalot (if that), as I recall. BD C3's/ Aliens would be very handy. I believe it would be a challenging lead, but I'm more than certain that it has been done.

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By Shane Steele
From: Grand Marais, MN
Aug 2, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For the lead, bringing at least one #3 helps for the higher crux.

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