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Black fly 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jeffries 97
Page Views: 211
Submitted By: Spencer Weiler on Dec 6, 2014

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Location 

Route 7 from the left, 3 left of shoreline. Look for big steel glue in bolts

Description 

The book says lots of 2 finger pockets and dishes. This isn't very accurate as I don't recall any. Pretty hard bouldery crux(not obvious sequence or holds) between bolts 2-3 on some bad crimps and a side pull before a massive slopey semi jug cobble around bolt 4. After that it is ridiculously steep 5.11 monster jugs that feel somewhat chossy to a small ledge followed by a short vertical pocket section to the anchor. Crux felt way steeper and harder than anything on shoreline. Book says 12c/d but I'd say 12d+ if shoreline is accurate at 12c

Protection 

Huge bomber steel glue in bolts. Bring 10 draws


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By LL2
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 13, 2017

On FA efforts I avoided the mud sidepull because it seemed like it would blow eventually, so for me it was a sequence of shallow dishes and pockets past bolt 2, stretch up to clip 3 with right hand from good obvious left hand sinker two finger pocket. I ended up big pull from same pocket into a very shallow two finger for the right hand by 3, feet up, lateral toss to left to a bad cobble, cross to next cobble with right, then big throw up and left to big sloping shelf cobble, feet cut, reestablish, then toss into chossy right hand jug/hole (lots of glue pumped into it, do not fear). Feet cutting everywhere. Yes it felt hard to me, took lots of tries. Was an expensive route, lol, not done as much as Shoreline, but very good.

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