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Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: lortie/strand 93
Page Views: 2,073
Submitted By: john strand on Jun 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn


After the approach, the climbing is about equal. Super climbing on perfect rock. About the hardest F/A I've done. Way good steep slab climbing in a real remote setting. Way hard climbing up a steep dark slab, very sustained and sweet. If this was on Cathedral. no one would EVER do it.
Some beta;
decently tough climbing off the ground 11A past a bolt to a rest.Gear up in the small corner to your right and then move onto the slab. Hard and harder moves past bolts and then a big iron cross type move out right to a micro knob//crux stand up/ mantle to a rest. One more 5.11 section (bolt may be shady, i was gripped) and then the belay


rap 90' from a pin/bolt anchor


Some small cams and bolts. Currently the bolts could use replacement, as they are old 5/16" ones. Also, it is a bit far to the first bolt and a possible gear placement before it is pretty crumbly (great rock the rest of the route), so be careful. It is well worth new bolts.

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By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 14, 2010

In mark's photo- go up the black streak to a ledge. Then right into the corner and step into the business. Belay under the hang. Pretty forshortened
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 8, 2010

This climb really needs to be completed. The features above just call out for a team of strong climbers. If the idea of a hard slab start doesn't appeal, there are easier and steeper, more featured ways in from the right. John has given assent to an upgrading of the anchors from the old pin/bolts.
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 8, 2010

Have at it lads !!!!
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Feb 19, 2014

Anyone know if this has been rebolted?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 19, 2014

i don't think so..Mark ? They are prolly still decent as no one has ripped one from falling off. it's kind of a pain to get in there and rebolt, but not TOO bad.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Feb 20, 2014

Nope. When out there bolting I have usually been by myself, so have not been into the idea of soloing up to the very high first bolt then aiding off the questionable buttonheads. To come in from the top requires a lot of rope and a big pendulum in since the anchors are protected by an overhang. The easiest safe way may now be to climb House Made of Dawn to the left and then traverse the sloping ledge with possible gear placements. You might be able to aid in from the closer Bullrun anchors to the right, but there is usually a wet band of slime in between (long stick clip?).
My personal opinion is that it needs a lower first bolt if people are ever regularly going to try it since the rotten little flake gear placement before it looks very dubious to me. The rest of the route looks well protected (once the bolts are replaced) If you slip getting to the first bolt you are looking at maybe a 35 foot steep slide down onto a series of stone steps. I'd give it another star for sure if it had another bolt.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 20, 2014

We must have been climbing pretty good then.. the first bolt was a retro job..climbed up to the ledge initially with out one...we never even saw the "dubious flake".
By M Sprague
From: New England
Feb 20, 2014

I am sure you were, John, since you climbed this thing at all. I'd be happy to TR it. It is a tough line. All that QQ training paid off.

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