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(8) Golden Valley
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Around the Corner S 
Aus der Traum S 
Black & Tan T 
Black Faced Man S 
Black Gold T 
Black Magic Woman T 
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Convenient S 
Dragon's Back S 
Dragon's Nose S 
Dripping Dragon S 
Gold T 
I Love Taiwan T 
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Kevlar Vest T 
Never S 
Nugget T 
Stephen's Size 13 Shoes S 
String Bikini T 
Teamwork S 
Very Inconvenient S 
Warm-up 1 T 
White-Faced Man S 
Yosemite Crack T 

Black Faced Man 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 17
Submitted By: Danger on Oct 5, 2014

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Bolts Are Failing! MORE INFO >>>


Start with easy 5th class scrambling to the ledge. From here many people go inland and come out again, but it's probably more by-the book to flip the overhang - no worries it's quite easy.

Staring up the dark, rough face of the wall is intimidating as the holds seem insufficient, but in fact much of the climbing is done on the arete, which hides surprisingly good holds at each horizontal crack.

Unlike the rest of golden valley the rock on this prow and the dark face especially is incredibly rough conglomerate with hundreds of pebble and microfeatures. Feet are good - amazingly so, and even when the rock looks blank, you can often step on "nothing" and have it stick.

The consensus grade is 11d, but with long reaches between good holds, the difficulty of this climb can vary quite a bit depending on height.


The darker face of the White Faced Man/Black Faced Man prow.


316 steel (2013)
One lead bolt may have unmixed epoxy

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By BBarryAK
19 hours ago
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fantastic line with many interesting moves that can't be found anywhere other than arĂȘte features. Reachy crux move around the 5th bolt bumps this to 12a in my book, where taller climbers might also find a hard balance move near the top.

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