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Black Eyes and Spam 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Kasey Cordell, BJ Sbarra, Luke Laeser, June 2005
Page Views: 735
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Climb up weird dihedrals past two bolts and a few gear placements. The second bolt is clipped from a ledge and "protects" the crux move up into a lieback/stem. Why this bolt wasn't placed two feet higher, and why the hangers were spray painted after they were installed, I'm not sure, but the movement on the route is decent.


Single set of cams and two draws.


To be filled/edited in.

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By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Nov 17, 2008

Matt put this up on the lead and as I remember that was as high as he could get the bolt. The lower bolt was added and the hangers were camouflaged later by another party, with permission.
By Dougald MacDonald
Nov 22, 2008

If this route were in Eldo, there'd be a line. Old-school 5.11a with interesting moves and good pro.
By Jamie Hozack
From: Carbondale, CO
Dec 31, 2008

First, much respect to the style of the first ascent. Second, the crux occurs with that original bolt at your waist or thigh, so why move it? The following block/crack section takes protection and offers good stances. Fixed-protection-alteration needed? I don't think so (but I'm no ethics referee).

The posted description is lame for a route that I really enjoyed, so I'll offer this:
This is an interesting route on great rock in a beautiful location, and it has a variety of fun moves. It seems steeper than it looks, but that's coming from me, and I'm a wuss. Small stoppers work well for the middle section, and help protect a middle crux scaling the corner that would be very exposed were that new, lower bolt not there. (Then again, you can do it with a piece in at eye-level, which is how I imagine the FA was done.) The original, upper bolt protects a tenuous move or two up into a reliable layback. A cam or two, up to 1", will protect the crack. Enjoy the view.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
May 18, 2009

Apparently the huge block that forms the upper crack on this route is now moving, approach with extreme caution. The locals are working on a solution.
By Mick S
From: Utah
May 4, 2017

This is a decent route with nice movement, but I would not suggest placing cams behind the block at the top....

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