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Black Elk Speaks 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Brian Hestetune on Mar 24, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Rope through draws of Black Elk Speaks

Description 

Start in the crack up canyon from Girls do Pinchlingue. Weird terrain for the duration of the crack. The crack will arch right with nice features. Once the crack runs out, you'll trend left on some easier terrain before the crux (12a). Pull the crux and continue on to a bolt then chain anchors.

Awesome climb with some interesting moves in the crack. If you did Black Mouse Squeaks, you should probably do this one for namesake.

Location 

Starts in the crack up canyon from Girls do Pinchlingue.

Protection 

Lots of bolts (12ish). Chain Anchors.


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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Apr 2, 2012

indeed weird climbing lower down, but fun. mid .11 moves up until the crimpy sidepull crux. one move wonder this one. lots of rests available. way easier than ag or pinchlingue.

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