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Black Death T 

Black Death 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 650', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Alpine Monkeys
Page Views: 175
Submitted By: Joshua Reinig on Sep 27, 2016

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Crux move on the second pitch!!!

Description 

The Black Death is by far and away one of the most insane and intense lines we have been able to piece together in the Tahquitz back country to date. After multiple sessions on the route and having to place 8 protection bolts on lead. The finished product is that of a completely different and amazing climb that ascends features in such a way that it is extremely different then almost anything found on all of San- J.
Follow the super wild white swirling dike the entire way from start to finish up the narrow black buttress. Almost entirely face climbing with enter-mitten gear. This is with the exception of the first 15 feet being a brilliant straight in 5.7 hand crack. Finishing the last pitch on a super stellar, steep, crystalline hand crack in a corner for the last 25', with a surprise ending to an amazing summit!

Location 

Start at the toe of this narrow buttress and follow until its end. Four different variations have been done to reach the first bolt but the one mentioned above is best.

Protection 

Standard trad rack.


Photos of Black Death Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting ready to send the crux V1 boulder problem ...
Getting ready to send the crux V1 boulder problem ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Magical last pitch dike haul!!!
Magical last pitch dike haul!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: C. Norwood on the crux second pitch of Black Death...
C. Norwood on the crux second pitch of Black Death...

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