REI Community
Desperate Dome (Desperate Reality Cliff)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Crack T,TR 
Corner Man T 
Desperate Reality T 
El Corador  T 
Fight Club T 
Fistfighter T,TR 
Kid Gloves T 
Temple of the Wind T 
Warm Up, The S,TR 

Black Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Forney and Mike Hankins, 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 316
Submitted By: C Banks on Jan 12, 2009

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  • This area is designated as Charon MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Begin just a few feet left of Corner Man and carefully traverse left along a horizontal break to gain the base of a crack splitting the obvious black water streak. You’ll encounter plenty of sustained wide hands to fist jamming on this one, although the crux is a short section at 30’ where the crack pinches down for a few moves. Save a 4.5”-5” piece to throw in the short section of off-width that immediately follows the crux. The last 30' is sustained 5.9 wide-hands goodness. Quality!


    This route begins a short ways up a low-angle slab that begins about 25' right of Fight Club.

    Descent: A short downclimb off the southwest corner of the rock gets you to the ground. Hike downhill, staying close to the cliff, and then carefully scramble down the aforementioned low-angle slab to the base of the route.


    Cams from 3/4" to 5". Double or triple set of #2-#4 Camalots. Gear anchor.

    Comments on Black Crack Add Comment
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    By C Banks
    From: Edmond, OK
    Dec 3, 2009

    Revised rack for Black Crack:

    You'll need two cams 4" or larger to protect the first twenty feet of the crack. A #4 C4 Camalot works well as the second big piece, but you should carry a bigger piece, like an old-style #4.5 Camalot or a #5 Wild Country Friend to protect the initial offwidth section. I haven't tried placing a #5 C4 here but I think it might be a tight fit, especially if you're wanting to slide the cam up a few feet as you climb. Hope this helps.

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