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Desperate Reality Cliff
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Black Crack T 
Desperate Reality T 
Hand Crack? T 
Warm Up, The S 

Black Crack 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Forney
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: banks on Jan 12, 2009

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  • This area is designated as Charon MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This excellent pitch ascends a steep hand/finger crack through the obvious black water streak on the main cliff, above and left of the route Desperate Reality.

    Black Crack is long, steep, and sustained (by Wichita's standards!) The crux is in a short section at about fifty feet where the crack pinches down to fingers and thin hands. With the exception of the start, a leftward traverse across a slightly crumbly shelf, the rest of the climb is on excellent rock. With fifty to sixty feet of continuous jamming, covering everything from fingers through wide hands, Black Crack is sure to get your pump on!

    Location 

    Locate the crack through the most obvious black water streak on the main cliff. Access to this crack, which begins about fifteen feet off the ground, is gained via a leftward hand traverse across a loose shelf. Pro is questionable on this initial section, but the climbing is easy relative to the remainder of the route.

    Protection 

    Stoppers, full set of cams from 1/2"-4", with doubles in the 1.5"-3" range.



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    By banks
    From: Oklahoma City, OK
    Dec 3, 2009

    Revised rack for Black Crack:

    You'll need two cams 4" or larger to protect the first twenty feet of the crack. A #4 C4 Camalot works well as the second big piece, but you should carry a bigger piece, like an old-style #4.5 Camalot or a #5 Wild Country Friend to protect the initial offwidth section. I haven't tried placing a #5 C4 here but I think it might be a tight fit, especially if you're wanting to slide the cam up a few feet as you climb. Hope this helps.