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"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 
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Apogee Pending S 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 
Flamingo Lane S 
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Here We Go Again... Again. S 
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Orange S 
Pimp's Main Prophet S 
Power Milk & Bagels S 
Power Thirteen S 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts S 
Satan's Alley S 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 
Spitting Image S 
Squeeze  S 
Teenage Prostitutes S 
That's What She Said S 
Treble Huck S 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 

"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rich Aschert & Co.?
Page Views: 720
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011

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Starting up the fun crack.

Description 

This line liebacks, jams, and stems up the obvious open-book. A set of 1980s-vintage ring bolts near the top of the cliff suggest the line was climbed on gear back in the day, but it has recently been retro-bolted by an unknown party.

Stem and lieback up smooth black rock to an easier section passing a large, detached flake. The feet get scarce passing an orange patch, then a brief juggy bulge leads to the route's highlight, a short section of splitter finger crack. Jam up the crack to deteriorating white stone and the original anchor. Continue a few more feet over a juggy roof to a new, stainless, springer anchor.

Location 

~100 yards north of the the leaning dihedral, up on a hill, is a dark slab with three lines. This is the central line.

Protection 

~7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, and a higher 2 bolt springer anchor. This could be lead on finger-hand-sized pieces.


Photos of "Black Crack" (Name Unknown) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The original Teenage Prostitutes Area.  Routes sho...
The original Teenage Prostitutes Area. Routes sho...

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By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Apr 6, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

IMO, one of the better 9s at Shelf. Really liked this one!

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