"Black Crack" (Name Unknown)
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Starting up the fun crack.
This line liebacks, jams, and stems up the obvious open-book. A set of 1980s-vintage ring bolts near the top of the cliff suggest the line was climbed on gear back in the day, but it has recently been retro-bolted by an unknown party.
Stem and lieback up smooth black rock to an easier section passing a large, detached flake. The feet get scarce passing an orange patch, then a brief juggy bulge leads to the route's highlight, a short section of splitter finger crack. Jam up the crack to deteriorating white stone and the original anchor. Continue a few more feet over a juggy roof to a new, stainless, springer anchor.
~100 yards north of the the leaning dihedral, up on a hill, is a dark slab with three lines. This is the central line.
~7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, and a higher 2 bolt springer anchor. This could be lead on finger-hand-sized pieces.
The original Teenage Prostitutes Area. Routes sho...
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Apr 6, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
IMO, one of the better 9s at Shelf. Really liked this one!