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Doug placing gear before the crux.
This route is somewhat sustained and is a very enjoyable lead or TR. The crux comes for most, especially shorter climbers, about 15 feet up.
This route is the next corner system to the right of Squirrel Cage and is the obvious black dihedral. There are several gulleys available for descent, the easiest being to the right when facing the wall.
The gear is a little dicey with microcams being very useful around the crux. Even with the right size gear the crux may feel heady, especially for shorter climbers. There is a tree on top along with cracks to make an anchor.
By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 28, 2011
If we're calling Squirrel Cage 5.9, this is more like 5.7+. Gear is definitely dicey at the crux, seems like an SLCD behind that block might blow it out. Otherwise, I found it enjoyable.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Oct 28, 2016
Technical gear placements down low with some run-out and ground fall potential. Not for the new 5.8 leader. Reasonable lead for an experienced trad leader. Critical small nut placement at crux.