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Black Cloud 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 12 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: R. Pizem, Righter
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 374
Submitted By: Jay 1975 on Oct 14, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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2016 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


The best pitches are 3 and 4, maybe 2 of the best in the canyon!? Pitch 3 is a long, sporty face pitch with like 10 bolts, and pitch 4 is a mixed rope stretcher.

The rest of the route is chossy like that end of the canyon tends to be.


Approach in Echo Canyon, and descend past North Shore route to the river. See the topo....


Double cams to #3, nuts, etc., and 1 - #4 cam also.

There are lots of bolts for a Black route for sure.

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By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Oct 14, 2015

Now there is a second rap anchor off of the island topout, so leave the tag at home. A 70m is needed!
By Mike Brumbaugh
Oct 17, 2016

Great route and one of the more enjoyable for the grade in the canyon. I disagree that it's chossy. I climbed it directly underneath another party and never felt in danger or got hit by anything. Even the pitches marked "scary" were enjoyable and took good pro - more so than many other routes in The Black. You can also leave several draws behind. Quit making excuses, and just go do it. You won't be disappointed.

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