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Black Christmas TR 
East Face/Fee T 
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Outer Dark 
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Black Christmas 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, February 22, 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, autumn
Page Views: 907
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Feb 22, 2009

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  • Description 

    Black Christmas (named for the 1973 horror movie) is the straight-up/right-trending mega-line on the Outer Dark wall.

    Begin down and left at the toe of the wall about six moves into Outer Dark. Move up past a sloping hueco and continue generally up and right along rails, crimps, gastons and sidepulls. Super-continuous climbing with only a couple shakes, and the crux at the top. Finish out over the slab for full value.

    I imagine you could - in theory - boulder this out, with lots of pads and willing victims (er, spotters) lining the big slot. However, the moves are gymnastic and a too-wild fall at the end would probably spit you past the ledge and into the 40-foot dropoff.

    As it is, a good TR - if you fall or hang, be sure to press off the slab behind you. Best short power-endurance climb in the Flatirons?


    East side of Fee, 75 yards due west of Bidoigt across the big gully.


    100 feet of static line, toprope rope, gear for the anchors. I scrambled around right and came back down the ramp to rig.

    We put in two separate anchors, one for each strand of the static line.
    • South anchor had purple (#1) Metolius Master Cam, a #1 Camalot, and the tree stump tied off.
    • North anchor had #4 Camalot, #9 Metolius, #2 Camalot, and down below (in the vertical crack) a #6 Metolius Master Cam.

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