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Black Chicks in Heat S 
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Black Chicks in Heat 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 439
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Feb 23, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Thin climbing to the second bolt leads to a sequence of incuts all the way to the anchor. If you make it to the first bolt you're in there. Getting to the second isn't bad. After that finding the right path of giant holds and keeping a cool head will get you through. The runout between the 4th and 5th will get your attention. A great tricam placement almost exactly between the 4th and 5th removes the R rating altogether. As far as R rated routes go this one isn't too bad. Everyone in our group found the moves up to the 2nd bolt more like 10c after that it's like a puzzle of runout 5.8.

Location 

Left of Just Under the Wire

Protection 

5 bolts to a lower off anchor. On my second lead of this I was happy to have a 2.5 Tricam between the 4th and 5th bolts. Can you find the spot and make it work?


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By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
May 27, 2016

This is the highly offensive route name given by the FA, and believed to be named after this movie.

In general, MP reports the names of routes as given by the FA (until they decide to change it), though there has been lengthy discussion about this, and there is definitely no perfect solution to these situations.

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