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The Blues Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accidental Discharge S 
Black Cat Bone S 
Blue in the Face S 
Color of Pain, The S 
Cry Baby S 
Number 9 T 
Rhythm and Bolts S 
Starfish T,S 
Twelve Gauge IQ T 
Unicorn Blues S 
Written in Stone S 

Black Cat Bone 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Cal Folsom, David Feinberg, 90
Page Views: 881
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008

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Black Cat Bone

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Description 

Start with a difficult crack bolder problem to the right of the obvious flake start to Twelve Gauge IQ. Climb part of that route and step over to a finger crack on the right face. Getting started in the crack is the crux. One can traverse left at the top into the sport climb Twelve Gauge IQ, or, I believe, head right to another anchor. I can't remember if this other anchor currently exists, however.

Location 

A 60m rope lowers from either anchor. This and the aforementioned Twelve Gauge IQ are located on the far left side of the Blues Cliff, to the right of Accidental Discharge.

Protection 

Finger-size cams and stoppers with maybe a couple of hand-size pieces. This climb used to have bolts next to the crack, but as per Chris's comment below they've been removed. Fixed anchors.


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By Drewsky
Dec 30, 2008

This climb used to be bolted but as per comments below, it's been restored to a more reasonable state.
By Ol Toby
From: CA
Jun 1, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

One of the more egregious examples of crack bolting I've seen. A shame, since the climbing is quite good. A few bolts to protect the move from the stance into the crack system and to protect the finish would suffice to keep the route from being R-rated.

There is no anchor at the top of the crack system as the guidebook indicates, nor is there one out to the right, so the route culminates with the steep 'n pumpy bolted finish of 12-gauge IQ.
By Chris Kalman
Aug 27, 2014

This route currently has no egregious bolts. The poorly placed bolts along the crack have all been chopped, and the line is as pure and beautiful as they come. I give it 4 stars myself.... The climbing is really really good.
By blakeherrington
Sep 15, 2014

Would anyone be opposed to the first bolt also getting chopped? It's 8" from the finger crack as well. I don't know why it also wasn't removed.
By Ol Toby
From: CA
Nov 3, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The first bolt should also definitely go.

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