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La Selva (Jungle Wall)
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Black Cat Bone 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 9 pitches, 800'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ed Wright & Dane Bass
Page Views: 7,255
Submitted By: Stich on Dec 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (68)
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BETA PHOTO: Main routes on Jungle Wall. Photo taken February, ...

Description 

As with other Jungle Wall climbs, the first pitches are straight forward exercises in light crimping and nice hueco pulling. The 4th class scramble pitch in the Garden of Bleedin' breaks up the vertical. The crux is the part right before the overhang. Thin, crumbly rock makes getting to the larger holds on the overhang more difficult than it at first appears. Surmount the actually easier overhang and then you come to another very fun and unique pitch. There are deep dihedrals that completely block out your left/right view of the canyon. This pitch was my favorite. A few more pitches later and you are at the summit ridge. Rappel the route the same way you came up using the same belay stations.

Pitches:

1. 5.9
2. 5.10b
3. 5.6
4. 3rd class through Garden of Bleedin'
5. 5.9 flakes, start of long, black streak
6. 5.10 big roof
7. 5.10d
8. 5.10b dihedral pitch
9. 5.9 to ridgeline

Location 

Locate the large overhang to the right of Space Boyz and follow the blank path through the chopped out cactus down. For all I know, it's name may be painted at the first bolt now. Ha.

Protection 

14 quickdraws usually works for most routes in the Potrero. A single 60 meter rope is the minimum length you should climb on here.


Photos of Black Cat Bone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the 5 pitch belay station of BCB. Awesome view!
At the 5 pitch belay station of BCB. Awesome view!
Rock Climbing Photo: Red line is Black Cat Bone (after roof, line is ap...
Red line is Black Cat Bone (after roof, line is ap...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Summit!
The Summit!
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the last pitch
Top of the last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: The "garden of bleedin'" gun sight for t...
The "garden of bleedin'" gun sight for t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Detail of the roof.
Detail of the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route far left is Space Boyz. The route on the...
The route far left is Space Boyz. The route on the...

Comments on Black Cat Bone Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 26, 2016
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 2, 2008

Some people just climb the roof and the dihedral and rap, avoiding the last pitch after that.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 7, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A fun varied route thats worth getting on for sure. There are bolts everywhere you need them and the raps are pretty clean for Potrero. Be careful on the loose rock sections.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 26, 2010

I like limestone. Well, I like good limestone. Didn't care for the potrero, should have gone to El Salto.
By Morgan F. Smith
From: Texas
Dec 8, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Rapping with a 70m rope was close on two occasions! The 10's up top are all awesome climbs, sooo much fun! Especially the dihedrals above the crux pitch! Last pitch is pretty runout so climb if you dare! Summit is worth it!
By Dylan Weldin
From: Athens, OH
Dec 24, 2014

My partner and I climbed this with an uncut 60m rope. On two of the rappels we were far short of the anchor resulting in some complications on descent. Save yourself the headache and please use a 70m rope for this route.
By Phill T
Dec 25, 2014

can confirm, single 70m rope will get you down just fine. Felt like the '10d' roof was pretty sandbagged, if well bolted. Link the two after the roof crux for a fun long pitch! Great route!
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Dec 25, 2014

Phil, you thought the roof was harder than 10d? I thought the thin face climbing before the roof is the crux, but that was some time ago.
By Tim Fry
From: Charlotte NC
Mar 3, 2015

With a 70m you can link P1-3 into one and get you to the good stuff faster. You'll need to simul ~10ft on easy ground for both climbers. You could link 5&6 but you should be really comfortable at the grade. The crux is tenuous slab and you'll have 180' of rope out while you're pulling the moves. The final two pitches link nicely with 10' to spare. I would not want to deal with the shenanigans that climbing this w/ a 60m would entail. You'd come up short at least 3 times.
By Pink Thunder
From: Aurora
Jan 27, 2016

I think the crux on this is definitely the roof pitch, but the most difficult part is actually the thin face leading up to the roof. More like tricky 11a.

And to echo everyone else here, bring a 70m for rapping, definitely.
By david7896
Mar 26, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Roof was the crux for me. I was glad i took nuts to loop bolts with missing hangers. there where only about 4 i can remember. Good climbing, worth doing
By daniel rossi
Nov 28, 2016

Lots of bad for three decent pitches... i wouldn't recommend this climb to anyone considering the outrageous amounts of loose rocks on pitch 4 and missing hangers on the last pitch.
By M HawkMan
Dec 26, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

We did this route today and I have a couple of things to add:

This route is very difficult for the grade. I would definitely suggest the actual rating here to be closer to 5.11a. I would also like to add that the bolts seemed a bit spacey in sections. For the most part, the hardest climbing on this route is pretty safely protected although it might feel spooky in some sections.

HOWEVER,

This climbs DEFINITELY warrants an "R" rating. It is very runout in spots. The 5.10b down low feels PG13ish and the 3rd pitch of 5.6 is extremely runout. You cannot fall on this pitch and there is loose rock. The same goes for the final 5.9 pitch. There are at least 2 rivets you will climb past on this final pitch between your bolt-clipping,( the hangers are missing). Again, you will be climbing roughly 5.9 terrain with some pretty serious runouts over sharp rocky ledges and the potential for big loose rock to come off. Having said that though, it didn't feel too scary leading the last pitch so long as you are careful and comfortable on 5.9- just don't fall. Seriously.


All and all I was disappointed with this route. There are certainly some good pitches here (everything from top of garden of Bleedin' through the dihedral pitch is pretty decent) but it is absolutely not worth all the trouble of getting up there and dealing with loose rock and rather unmemorable "approach" pitches. Everything up through the Garden of Bleedin' is rather terrible IMHO. We almost knocked rock off the route twice when we were rappelling, but we were saddling the rope and thankfully the saddle bags caught the big stones before they surrendered to gravity. And one more thing: the little rap hanger things which make up each belay look pretty awful. It looks like someone made them in their garage or picked them up at the hardware store....20 years ago.... Like many routes at the Potrero, this one could use a retro bolting. It was not exactly comforting to be weighting that old rusty hardware, and this hardware seemed worse than other routes here in EPC

I will never climb this route again and do NOT recommend it. Go get on Pitch Black instead!!!!

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